Barry said people treat him like a dog, is it because he treats the country like a dog does to a fire hydrant?
Most likely the engine is toast. Time to get a new engine or more likely junk the car altogether since the repairs/replacement will cost more than the car's worth. One thing you can try before scrapping the car is to take the valve cover and head off the engine (if you or someone you know is skilled enough to do so and has some time on their hands) and spray some penetrating oil into the cylinders (like WD-40 or JB-80) and let it soak overnight. After soaking the cylinders in the penetrating oil, bump the starter and see if the pistons move again. If they do, reassemble the top half of the engine. The engine will most likely burn a significant amount of oil (if it does free up) because the piston rings (among other things) are most likely nuked from extreme friction and overheating caused by running the engine with no oil, but if it frees up using the oil it will still run again for a while. I'd probably look into trading the car in on another one really soon if I got the engine to free itself because it isn't going to run a whole lot longer due to the damage caused by overheating the engine the first time. Otherwise, it's off to the junkyard.
If it was my garage, I would fill it with a quality concrete and let it go like that. Like you expressed, the floor has been stable for 5 years. If it held that long it isn't going to sink any more. Also, since you plan to move in the next year or two, it's a sure fix. You could either fix it yourself or get a small cement company ( local one that has been around for awhile and doesn't mind doing small jobs - the big boys are going to want to make a big production out of it to make more money ). That is what I would do , even if I planned to stay for twenty years.
I have done this, but had the problem that if you just take a dried bug, often the air out of the bug will come out during curing and the resin isn't transparent there. So, yes, getting air out is important. I think it's less that the bug rots. So I didn't find it easy to get good results unless you try to get the resin into the bug as well. The solvents to make this easier are pretty toxic, so I don't know whether to recommend this. I haven't tried a vacuum pump which could pull air out of the bug while it is immersed in resin, it would probably be one of the better ways to go. The other way would be to use resin without the catalyst and immerse the bug in that for at least a couple of hours. Then remove most of that and replace it with resin with catalyst. That works better if the resin is less viscous - therefore if you do it in several steps with resin with a solvent (going from lots of solvent and little resin to very little solvent and mostly resin) it can work. But the additional problem is to get the bug's legs into a nice pose. That works well with a bug you can dry and pin the legs so they will hold shape while the bug is dry, but once the bug is in the solvent, that pose will disappear. It's all a lot of work. By the way, if you need to kill a bug, the best way is to put it into a freezer in a jar. The cold will first anesthetizes the bug before it kills it.
