My smoke detector is incessantly chirping and needs to be replaced. But it is hardwired to the ceiling and I'm not sure how to get it out. It has a battery compartment on one side and then three wires connected to it but I'm not sure how to get them out. Can anyone help me?
It's not impossible to MAKE it, but how would you transport it? That's why it is sold in standard lengths.
That sounds like a case of Syn Athina kai xeira kinei, but only for the benefit of the church. It is amazing that nowadays all the more priests are installing the latest sophisticated means of security and surveillance for the protection of the churches which clearly shows that the ages when thieve were terrified of God's wreath are over.
I understand the need for the cables. It is not for use to determine that it is overkill when you have not stated a thing about the use. Presumably you don't want to create work for yourself. Rules vary between jurisdictions, but there are some general principals: 1) Holes should be no more than 25% of the joist diameter, and obviously smaller is better. 2) Multiple holes are fine but must be separated by at least three hole diameters. 3) Wiring running along joists must be clipped in place every 200mm or so. 4) Holes should be towards the _end_ of a span - this is often got the wrong way around online. Stresses are greatest at the center of the spam since that is where the most flexing takes place. Avoid the centre third of the span as a result. 5) Holes should not be within 1 1/8 of the top of a joist to reduce the chance of a nail piercing the cable. This is not strictly a rule for computer cables (it is for power) but you are still best paying attention to it. Personally, if it was me doing this my default approach barring any site-specific difficulties would be a sequence of 16mm holes on say 100mm spacing. You'll be able too get three leads through each hole. Resist the temptation to jam more wires through each hole - the leads should pass through freely to avoid burning where the insulation is damaged by the wires rubbing against each other inside the hole.
Other than gluing , smaller sections of pipe can be fused (melted)together. Fusing is a common technique in industrial and civil applications and for joining types of plastic pipe for which there isn't a solvent based glue available. HDPE (High density Poly Ethelyene) is an example of a thermo plastic, one which is joined by heat and not a solvent based glue. PCV (Poly Vynil Chloride) pipe like what you would find at home depot uses a solvent based glue. The solvent based glue chemically softens and joins the pipe sections together without the use of heat. The attached link shows a mile long section being fused together as its being pulled into an old pipe. Fused joints do not require addtional pipe fittings like couplings. Couplings used in glued PVC joints are larger diameter than the pipe and would not be able to be pulled through an old pipe section with a significant loss of inside pipe diameter. Fused joints are nearly the same outside diameter of the pipe and do not require a coupling fitting. As a result the fused pipe can be pulled into an old section of pipe and use nearly the entire inside dimension of the old pipe. The process of placing a new pipe inside and old pipe is called slip lining. It is a means to rejuvinate and old leaky pipe without he need to dig up all of the the old pipe.
