Over the summer i plan to do a complete engine rebuild on my mkIV ford fiesa 1.4i ghia. I urgently need to replace the exhaust valves on my cylinder's though, as the compression is barely sufficient to run it as the pressure is running straight out the exhaust. So in the meantime i want to get the cylinder head off and do this. I'm wondering what equipment will i need to get this off? I know as far as getting the valves out i need a valve spring compressor (not got) and feeler gauge (got). Also got a mega socket set so that's no worries, also a haynes manual. But that only explains removing the head after removing the whole engine, which i don't want to do. Wondering if i will need an hoist or can me and a mate lift it off? I ideally want a list of equipment needed please? Also do i have to remove the exhaust and inlet manifold with the head? I'm worried i'm gonna miss something connected and rip something off or undo too much. It's a 1.4i zetec-s petrol engine. Cheers, Dan
Unfortunately you are going to have got to on the very least loosen the rocker arm and pull the ones push rods out. Just take care to become aware of which finish used to be up. Some are in a position with exclusive ends. As for readjusting them, when you've got hydraulic lifters no concerns you are not able to pass too some distance fallacious... Solid lifters or mechanical lifters might motive you a few minor inflammation. If you will have a store handbook simply comply with the course in it. There aren't any tips or secrets and techniques I can impart upon you presently. When time involves re set up lifters simply publish new query. Lots of support is definite to be determined right here. Hope this is helping
I don't know that car directly, but look under the hood, look at how the head is positioned on the engine. You'll need like a foot of clear space directly above the head to get it off. If the engine is canted in the engine bay the head is up against the firewall, you may have to drop the engine/transaxle sub frame to get at the head.
the way I used to do it is unbolt ever thing from the head I possible could,and leave it in the car ,like intake, exhaust, manifolds any acc connected,remove bolts that are in head remove the head leaving every thing I could in place you really need to take the head to machine shop so they can check valve guides and shave the head to get a good seal when you put it back on and valve seats and valves need to be fitted at the right angles depending on shop time to do the head work,you should be able to do it in a day ease
Answers in order: I'm wondering what equipment will i need to get this off? - Socket wrench - Socket Set - Gasket Scraper or razor blade - Some spray lubricant - You'll need a torque wrench to put it back and a new gasket. Wondering if i will need an hoist or can me and a mate lift it off? -Yeah, it's not too heavy, you could get it yourself, but they're a little awkward to carry. get your mate over and have him help to be sure you don't drop it or anything. Also do i have to remove the exhaust and inlet manifold with the head? - The exhaust and inlet manifolds need to be taken off first. -Make sure when you remove the headers that you don't let them fall and crack on the ground. I'm worried i'm gonna miss something connected and rip something off or undo too much. -Nah, you'll be fine. If you cant instinctively figure out how things go back together, take some pictures as you go, from several angles. that way its easy to figure it back out. Best of luck.
It will take you two days and about eight hours of work, provided you know what you are doing. Which you don't, so plan on having the car off the road for about three days to allow for your mistakes. You may ask if the job is only going to take eight hours of work, why two to three days. The reason is simple, the head will need to be taken to a machine shop for a rebuild. The machinist may even have work ahead of yours, resulting in further delays. More then likely you will also need a water pump, new front seal and timing belt. In the end the job might have to be done twice because you did some thing wrong and bent a valve stem, or even worse punched a hole in the top of a piston resulting in the need for a complete engine rebuild. Considering the cost of tools, down time and your experience level, it might prove cheaper just to buy a good used engine and swap them out. I have seen head repair work cost more then such an engine and the end results were no better. You will have a couple of hundred invested in tools alone, which is fine if you plan on working on cars on a regular basis. Another couple of hundred in parts (gaskets are not cheap). So before you even tear it apart it you are looking at two to three hundred dollars being spent. What I am saying is please reconsider your course of action, trying to save a penny in the end may cost you dollars.
