Question:
I have to build a toothpick bridge and I can only use toothpicks and elmers glue?
I am building a toothpick bridge and it is sticking to wax paper what else can I use to build on that wont stick to the toothpicks.?
Answer:
Since your building is probably a pole barn with metal roof/wallsI would stud in the outside walls of your office with 2 x 6 on 2' centers - this is between your 6 x 6 postsInsulate these outside walls with R19This is much higher and more economical than Dow Styrofoam 2 at about $20 for a 4'x8' 2 sheetThe other walls should also be 2 x 6 framing on 2' centersI would use 2' centers because the wall is not really load bearing and you can use 5/8 drywall with these studs on 2' centers.Use R19 in these wallsUse ceiling joist of 2 x 6 on 2' centers up to a 8' spanIf your office is wider than 8' use 2 x 8 ceiling joist up to 12' spanIf wider than 12' use 2 x 10 up to 16' spanInsulate the ceiling with R30 battsInstall a prehung steelclad exterior type door-which is an insulated doorInstall a thru the wall heat/cool unit made by G.EThey are about $1200 but provide both heat and cool and ventilationIt's either that or a baseboard heater and a window air conditionerIn the longrun the thru the wall heat/cool unit will be betterIf you like a drop suspended ceiling, just frame your office walls to 9' and then install the drop ceiling at 8' which gives you a foot of space to install wiring to your drop ceiling grid light fixtures and maybe a ventilation fan if you choose to use baseboard heaters.
Fiberglass is the safer way to insulateYou want at least R-13 insulation.
I think fiberglass expands and fills cracks and crevices moreIt's hard to cut styrofoam so precisely that there aren't leaks somewhereI'm pretty sure the fiberglass is less expensive, tooI don't know what your criteria of best insulation is, I think code where I am is R-21 in the walls, and R-40 (or thereabouts) for the ceiling, but insulation is one of those things where the more, the betterRight off the bat, if this is a typical metal building, it's probably sitting on an uninsulated concrete slabThose are notorious for sucking heat away from a building, although it probably helps during air conditioning weatherIf you wanted to put foam to some good use, putting some on the floor might be a good place (make sure it's the pink or blue stuff suitable for direct burial, otherwise, moisture will negate the insulation effect)EDIT: The link below tells about foam insulationsIt says foam is more expensiveMany types have moisture issuesIf space is tight it's often usedYes, R-value is about 3-4 times greater per inch than fiberglass, but it still costs more.
aluminum foil or grease the wax paper
Fiberglass is the safer way to insulateYou want at least R-13 insulation.
I think fiberglass expands and fills cracks and crevices moreIt's hard to cut styrofoam so precisely that there aren't leaks somewhereI'm pretty sure the fiberglass is less expensive, tooI don't know what your criteria of best insulation is, I think code where I am is R-21 in the walls, and R-40 (or thereabouts) for the ceiling, but insulation is one of those things where the more, the betterRight off the bat, if this is a typical metal building, it's probably sitting on an uninsulated concrete slabThose are notorious for sucking heat away from a building, although it probably helps during air conditioning weatherIf you wanted to put foam to some good use, putting some on the floor might be a good place (make sure it's the pink or blue stuff suitable for direct burial, otherwise, moisture will negate the insulation effect)EDIT: The link below tells about foam insulationsIt says foam is more expensiveMany types have moisture issuesIf space is tight it's often usedYes, R-value is about 3-4 times greater per inch than fiberglass, but it still costs more.
aluminum foil or grease the wax paper
Fiberglass is the safer way to insulateYou want at least R-13 insulation.
I think fiberglass expands and fills cracks and crevices moreIt's hard to cut styrofoam so precisely that there aren't leaks somewhereI'm pretty sure the fiberglass is less expensive, tooI don't know what your criteria of best insulation is, I think code where I am is R-21 in the walls, and R-40 (or thereabouts) for the ceiling, but insulation is one of those things where the more, the betterRight off the bat, if this is a typical metal building, it's probably sitting on an uninsulated concrete slabThose are notorious for sucking heat away from a building, although it probably helps during air conditioning weatherIf you wanted to put foam to some good use, putting some on the floor might be a good place (make sure it's the pink or blue stuff suitable for direct burial, otherwise, moisture will negate the insulation effect)EDIT: The link below tells about foam insulationsIt says foam is more expensiveMany types have moisture issuesIf space is tight it's often usedYes, R-value is about 3-4 times greater per inch than fiberglass, but it still costs more.
aluminum foil or grease the wax paper
Since your building is probably a pole barn with metal roof/wallsI would stud in the outside walls of your office with 2 x 6 on 2' centers - this is between your 6 x 6 postsInsulate these outside walls with R19This is much higher and more economical than Dow Styrofoam 2 at about $20 for a 4'x8' 2 sheetThe other walls should also be 2 x 6 framing on 2' centersI would use 2' centers because the wall is not really load bearing and you can use 5/8 drywall with these studs on 2' centers.Use R19 in these wallsUse ceiling joist of 2 x 6 on 2' centers up to a 8' spanIf your office is wider than 8' use 2 x 8 ceiling joist up to 12' spanIf wider than 12' use 2 x 10 up to 16' spanInsulate the ceiling with R30 battsInstall a prehung steelclad exterior type door-which is an insulated doorInstall a thru the wall heat/cool unit made by G.EThey are about $1200 but provide both heat and cool and ventilationIt's either that or a baseboard heater and a window air conditionerIn the longrun the thru the wall heat/cool unit will be betterIf you like a drop suspended ceiling, just frame your office walls to 9' and then install the drop ceiling at 8' which gives you a foot of space to install wiring to your drop ceiling grid light fixtures and maybe a ventilation fan if you choose to use baseboard heaters.
Since your building is probably a pole barn with metal roof/wallsI would stud in the outside walls of your office with 2 x 6 on 2' centers - this is between your 6 x 6 postsInsulate these outside walls with R19This is much higher and more economical than Dow Styrofoam 2 at about $20 for a 4'x8' 2 sheetThe other walls should also be 2 x 6 framing on 2' centersI would use 2' centers because the wall is not really load bearing and you can use 5/8 drywall with these studs on 2' centers.Use R19 in these wallsUse ceiling joist of 2 x 6 on 2' centers up to a 8' spanIf your office is wider than 8' use 2 x 8 ceiling joist up to 12' spanIf wider than 12' use 2 x 10 up to 16' spanInsulate the ceiling with R30 battsInstall a prehung steelclad exterior type door-which is an insulated doorInstall a thru the wall heat/cool unit made by G.EThey are about $1200 but provide both heat and cool and ventilationIt's either that or a baseboard heater and a window air conditionerIn the longrun the thru the wall heat/cool unit will be betterIf you like a drop suspended ceiling, just frame your office walls to 9' and then install the drop ceiling at 8' which gives you a foot of space to install wiring to your drop ceiling grid light fixtures and maybe a ventilation fan if you choose to use baseboard heaters.
