I wouldn't be asking i knew.lol
Cyanoacylate (Krazy Glue) adhesives are very good for this sort of application. Last I checked, they (or their cousins the octylacrylates or butylacrylates) were even used in surgery, such as for sealing over the hole left for removal of the pituitary gland. They are instant adhesives that work relatively well on surfaces such as rubber. However, many commercial brands lack flexural resistance, and tend to crack on rubber (personal experience- latex and polycarbonate with CA adhesive). Loctite corporation (reference 1) produces a broad range of products with different properties; although primarily designed for industry (automotive fasteners), some of their products will probably get you through the prototyping stage until a biomechanical engineer can get his mitts on your patented product. If you want to dink around a little, I've found Shoe Goo to be a remarkable adhesive on porous surfaces, with good flexural, peel, and other properties that would be what you're looking for. Abrading the surface a bit with fine steel wool or, say, 100 grit sandpaper would probably help create a stronger bond. Another product by the same company called E6000 is very similar, and also quite strong. You can find either at discount or craft stores. I've bound Nylon webbing with E6000 to have it last as a component in my belt for over a year, even having been put through the washer and dryer on heat. Much goodstuff. Both CA and the other adhesives I mention should take reasonably high pH without difficulty. I wouldn't bathe either in saturated KOH or whatever, but they should tolerate some exposure to alklai.
A hose with a hand controlled sprayer and a bucket of water and car wash soap , a long with a brush and a few towels set aside and some music , the best . A high pressure wash , are you serious , this will only knock off film and not to much dirt. turn it up or change the valves and your gonna start peeling off paint.
