I've noticed people ask similar questions on here about smoke detectors beeping only to receive glib, even rude, responses telling them that they need to change the batteries. Before anyone suggests that to me, I'd like you to know the alarm does NOT operate on batteries and is connected directly the wiring in my house. It doesn't even have a backup battery (not good, but I had nothing to do with the construction of the house and until I can get an electrician to change it out for me, I'm pretty much stuck with what I have).Now that we have that out of the way, it is made by Lifesaver, and has a Hush button and a Reset button. I have pressed both. I have reset the breaker that controls the alarm at the breaker box. Nothing has worked. Anyone have any suggestions on what I can do? I thank you all in advance!
Go to your local auto parts store and ask for a haynes manuel for the make and model of the vehicle. that book will have detailed information on your vehicle.
instead of cutting wires and potentially disabling your vehicle you could unplug your hood switch. this would allow you to still use your fob to lock and unlock the vehicle. the switch is located on the right front fender next to the power steering pump reservoir. this is probably your issue anyway. try this simple test. close all the doors and hood and lock the vehicle to set the alarm. then with the hood closed lightly pull up on the left front of the hood and see if the alarm sounds. if it does you may just need to adjust the hood switch, or replace the pad that closes on the hood switch.
Yes you can disable it!. To disable the alarm, go to the Electronic Time and Alarm Control Module (ETACM) located in the center console below the Heater and A/C controls and cut the Blue/Orange wire at terminal 12 of connector M25-3 at the ETACM to disable the burglar alarm relay, cut the ground wire for the siren on the Green/Orange wire at terminal 9 of connector M25-3 at the ETACM, and cut the ground wire for the hazard relay on the Green wire at terminal 8 of connector M25-3 at the ETACM and tape them off in the harness to eliminate those systems. The horn will still work (separate horn from the siren of the burglar alarm system), and the hazards still work (hazard relay only for vehicles with a burglar alarm) and the engine will crank - burglar alarm relay de-energized. Then just verify everything works. CONNECTOR Descriptions; Connector M25-3 at the ETACM is the 2 row 12 cavity connector. The other two connectors at the ETACM at M25-1 (2 row 20 cavity connector) and M25-2 (2 row 16 cavity connector). ADDED; This isn't experimental testing, this is a proven repair to deactivate the alarm in these models, And I have used it many times!
