I'd like to do some wiring by myself, but I don't feel comfortable with the gloves I am wearing, particularly when using isolating tape.I know the best I can do is turn off the main switch, but what to do in case I have to deal with a wire that comes from the service company?
Pay someone to do it. That is the most minimal way for you to do it. It will cost you though. I used to tint windows and the company I worked for charged as much to take it off as we did to put it on. If we were lucky, it would peel back in a single sheet and we soaked the remaining glue with soapy water and then either scrubbed the stuff off or we scraped it off with razors (we had to watch out for defroster lines). If we were unlucky and the film was too brittle to peel back or the glue was just too strong then we had to resort to using ammonia to loosen the stuff. We would spray full strength ammonia on the glass in the back and let that soak in. Then climb in the car and scrub like crazy to get it loose. Sometimes we would resoak. Breathing in the ammonia fumes was a most pleasant experience. I would highly recommend it. (Sarcasm detector beeping like crazy) Other times, we would use a heat gun to loosen the film. It gets the glue so hot that it melts. We did not use a hair dryer but an actual industrial heat gun. This thing could melt pennies at its highest setting. This sounds like it would make the job easy but it was a pain. The glue is hot and it burns you. Plus, if you heat a section of glass too quickly or let it get too hot then you could shatter the glass. One person stood outside heating the glass and the other was inside peeling the film off. Since, then I have read about using steam to loose the film. I have no idea how well that would work. There are places that sell steam machines designed to remove old film.
There is not enough difference between those two processors for you to be able to notice it when running any program that both are capable of running. If you have come down to these two in your decision making process, I'd go with the T5850 unless you can find the P8600 on sale somewhere so that it is the same price or cheaper.
Both inline and quad skates (like your brother's with 4 wheels in a rectangle) are roller skates. Quads are inherently much slower than inlines, even with the best skates and wheels. When inlines were allowed to compete in roller skating races, there was one year when people used both before it became obvious that a so so skater on inlines would always beat much better skaters on quads. The wide wheels are a big part of them being slow. Shorter wheels are also slower. All inline and quad wheels are made of polyurethane (aka urethane). The rebound (amount the wheels bounces back when dropped) is proportional to how fast they will go with the same effort. The compounds that they put in the urethane to make them wear longer also reduce the rebound so you will generally have to trade off wear if you want wheels that roll better. There is also a small amount of variation in rebound from batch to batch. I know an engineer that is also an inline skate racer that built a machine to test which wheels roll better. He and a local wheel vendor have tested many batches of wheels to see which ones roll better.
