Why Liquid EPDM or Liquid Rubber is best choice as a roof repairing sealant?
First off, the question should be How do I get past Second off, you shouldn't. I'm a teacher. There are reasons that there are blocks on there, and it's not because they don't want you on there. There are tons of viruses that infect the school computers if you go there and mess with stuff. Stop wasting school time doing myspace, and instead focus on getting an education and making yourself into a contributing member of society.
Either will work, but because of the possibility of drafts I don't fully trust the gas 'sniffer' method. I use a solution of DAWN dish washing Liquid [about 2 tablespoons to 5 or 6 ounces of tap water in a 10 to 12 ounce container ( usually a clean 303 food can for me)]. I then use a 1 inch paintbrush to violently stir the mixture to a froth of thick bubbles. I then generously apply a wet/juicey layer of the soap bubbles to all joints, including all valves and valve stems, shaft packing nuts, etc. Make SURE there are no 'holidays,' missed areas, and that ALL potential leak sites are well wetted with the test solution. Do not get in a big hurry, but do each possible leak point one at a time, and observe for at least 30 seconds to a minute. I mentally note any leaks, and go back a 2nd or 3rd time just to be sure I haven't missed any leaks. If there is a leak present, it will be indicated by 'motion' in the bubble layer, creation of new / smaller bubbles, AND the 'leak' bubbles will be much smaller, and a more compact 'blob' at the leak site.' Also, the 'new,' leak bubbles will appear 'whiter' than the old bubbles applied with the brush. It is also a good idea to 'soap test' the entire pressure guage as the leak could be there.
