Ok i was wondering which is the from hose off of the motor the bottom or top since i thinl my heater core hose are reversed and i only get nuke warm air and not hot and yes ive got a brand new heater core, new anti freese, new thermostat and gaskets and all hoses are clear and not rust in the system
IIRC it's just like the v8 chevys. Bottom rad hose is out of rad, into pump. Top rad. hose is out of engine, into rad.
My husband and that i agree 3 hundred%. He has a seventy six with 296,000 mi.-on no account any artwork achieved different than recurring maintenence. I had a sixty 3 that I drove for 19 years and offered back to unique proprietor in 1992-it nevertheless runs large. It had a 327(finely tuned) and have been given 31 mpg hwy. there replaced into room to artwork below the hood, certainly become conscious of factors and do maintenance, or jury rig till an entire restoration replaced into made. Have an 80 5 now and not something yet issues!!! Sorry I enable the sixty 3 pass-he won't area with it. the only progression in extra present day is stereo, no longer the automobiles themselves. a visit to wrecking backyard will demonstrate extra extra present day ones than older. information do no longer lie. save your truck!!!
I think the info you are looking for is which heater hose supplies the heater core and which hose returns the water to the system. The heater core has two connections, the bottom is usually water in, the top water out. Generally the hose from the top of the engine supplies the heater core and the hose going to the water pump is returning back to the system. Having cleared that up, it doesn't really matter, even if the hoses are reversed, coolant will flow through the heater core regardless, unless there is a control built into one of the heater hoses that actually cuts off the flow of coolant to the heater core. Some trucks have them some don't. If yours does, check that it is working properly or remove it altogether. Now let's examine the possible source of your problem. I would look at either the heater control in the cab or the heater box itself. In the early 70's GM started using pneumatics, and vacuum operated components for their environmental controls. Vacuum operated doors opened and closed to allow airflow to different parts of the system, A/C, defroster, vents, heat, etc. A vacuum leak, a kinked hose, a bad control will cause the doors to stay closed, giving the illusion that there is no heat. By the same token, the wrong door stuck open could allow excessive outside air to mix with the heated air effectively cooling it off, but that is not likely. Check the main control in the cab, and the vacuum actuators and hoses. If by some chance yours still has the steel cables, make sure they are well lubricated, connected, and functioning.
