We had to remove some tile and break out the wall behind our shower/bath wall in order to put in a new part for new fixtures. So, now we need to repair that portion of the wall (about 3‘x2‘) and re-tile it. Do we need to use greenboard (it looks like either that or just drywall was used originally) or cement board? Also, how do we join the new portion of backing to the old portion? When tiles are removed, they damage the old backing -- so I can‘t take off an extra row of tiles and then have that backer exposed in order to tape and put mortar over. Hubby says we can cut the backer to fit the opening, and then just go ahead and tile, and that the grout will effectively seam and waterproof those joints where the new backing meets the old tiled backing. Any suggestions?
bathing room tiles are farley affordable and uncomplicated to place in. i does not paint them, that seems particularly cheesy to me. i could propose only changing all of them. if it is the bathtub encompass area you're conversing approximately my company replaces all of that for $650 which contains the hardi board in the back of the tile. that's definitely significant in case you have had some lacking tiles or cracked tiles because of the fact moisture gets in the back of there and motives mold. while you're conversing approximately portray floor tile i could additionally propose only changing all of it. Tiling isn't that confusing extraordinarily in a bathing room on the grounds that its so small. i could say splurge slightly and get new tile. it is going to a great deal improve the look of your bathing room. And dont be afraid to circulate with tiles in sizes including 13x13 on partitions and 20x20 on flooring. It particularly makes the area look greater.
jd's answer is good, but I would re-do the full wall in question with greenboard and re-tile that wall. It will look less obvious than a repair, and the cost and labor are not allthat much higher.
I recently retiled my bathroom and checked the instructions for several backerboard manufacturers. They all recommended filling the seams with alkali resistant joint mesh and thinset mortar (or a similar product). I think the problem with just using grout is that there can be movement in the walls that may cause the seam eventually leak water. I would try to tape/mortar the seams.
I am just real curious how you are going to hold the new backing in place. If you have that figured out I would suggest cement board. Sheet rock won't last and green board is little better. Use a clear sealent from the old to the new. (If you leave a little space - 1/8 inch or so, you can squeeze the sealent in.) Make sure non of the sealent is on the surface of either backer. Let it set for 48 hours. Tile and grout. My mother's folks all did tile work for a living. They would tell you to take the tile down for the entire wall and start over. In the long run, that is probably the best thing to do. Steven's answer was posted while I was writing. His recommendation and suggestions make great sense.
You want to use the concrete backer board for wherever you hang the tile. You need it to help support the weight of the tile on the wall. For the rest, it is probably a good idea to use the greenboard to resist the moisture. And actually, if you get a brand name faucet for your shower, you shouldn't ever have to break out the tile. Most of the bigger name faucet companies have it so the guts of the faucet valve can be pulled out without ever getting into the wall. Then since the back portion is pretty much generic for most of their faucet you should have a variety of new faucet styles that will fit over that valve. You just need to get the kit for the style you like. Just go to a store that specializes in plumbing or bathrooms.
