I need to run a fridge on a small power generator that don't have enough staring power to run it , would adding a huge industrial capacitor make it possible ?
No the capacitor will not make it possible. The fridge needs to run on a certain amount of power and your generator gives off a certain amount of power. This means that the generator only provides a certain amount of energy for certain amount of time where is the fridge needs more. The only way to make up that difference is to increase the amount of energy generation per unit time. Capacitors themselves don't produce any energies they just store it releases suddenly therefore it may be able to start the fridge for a little bit but it won't be able to continuously run it. Also don't try this, because if you power a compressor on short cycles, this is the fastest way to destroy a compressor. You just need a bigger generator.
A capacitor won't work because its storage capacity is far too low. A lot of batteries might work if it is a DC fridge. If it is AC then a capacitor or batteries will only explode if anything; it's not a match. Your best bet is a large power resistor and a switch, or a high wattage rheostat. Assuming 120 volts, they would be somewhere in the ballpark of 10 to 100 ohms and 1000 watts for either one. You use it to reduce the power sent to the fridge from the generator, then after the fridge motor gets going you gradually provide more power to it. That will keep you from overloading the generator. In the case of the rheostat you wire it in series with one of the power leads and slowly turn the dial until you finally reach zero ohms. For the resistor you do the same, with a switch in parallel to it. So once the fridge starts cranking slowly then you flip the switch for full power. You might do multiple resistors in series with eachother for more gradual steps. In series means you select one of the generator output wires and cut it. Or if you want to keep it intact, do this with an extension cord that you connect to the generator. Each of the two leads on the power resistor or rheostat gets soldered to one of the cut wires. Each of the two leads on a 10 amp switch (assuming 120 volts), gets soldered to the same two spots. The switch begins off. If you use a rheostat then you don't need a switch; you adjust the dial on the rheostat instead. Start it at high resistance and gradually reduce to zero. As always be careful around high voltage. Heat shrink tubing is a good way to cover dangerous bare wire. Electrical tape might fall off over time. Also be aware that the power resistor or rheostat will get hot until a few minutes after you bypass the power resistor or turn the rheostat to zero.
Add more power voltage amps with increase high power socket switches or wires.If it's capacitor consume low power consumption then check it with stabilizers.Normal mode can find easily with help of stabilizer.
The old style, pre- electronic wash machines used that same principle. They had a relatively small motor and used one or two huge capacitor's to get the motor going. Those capacitor's save up the maximum amplitude on the voltage sine wave (120V) and bleed out the power when the amplitude reverses each 1/60 th of a second. You might luck out, but I'm not sure if the AC compressor motor is an induction motor like the wash machine motors are so check out how to wire the capacitor in the circuit first and if it works with a compressor motor. It should, come to think of it, a lot of compressor's have capacitor starts s I can't see why a refrigerator compressor would be much different. You did say the running wattage of the generator is enough to keep the fridge going.right?
