can newer 4cylinder trucks tow 14 ft aluminum boat and trailer?

looking to buy 07 or newer truck to pull 88 aluminum mirrowcraft boat and trailerwant to last for a whilecan 4 cylinder do the jobalso will be my main vehiclegas will be going up and most of my driving around townlakes are within hour drivelive in western palooking at nisson or tacoma that have more towing than say ranger.

I agree w/ MT Cadditionally because Im confident the residences there rnt lots different than right here interior the Phx area Im confident U dont wanna attempt hauling super products up there (ie cloth cabinet)ought to wanna think of approximately thisdevelopment a cloth cabinet or armoire up there interior the attic on the wall that the ceiling slopes to, to get greater effective benefit of the gap U could artwork w/This beats haul'g furniture up there then having to haul it back downstairs get'g rid of it cuz he desires greater stuff to place issues on/inadditionally, if there is sufficient space to tug this off, build a pedestal w/ drawers to place below the mattress for much greater cupboard areaconsistent with possibility try this 1st then the geared up in cloth cabinet/closet aspectsadditionally, conflict by using all of his stuff w/ him determine what can go what can stay for him to go as much as the atticCant go incorrect development stuff up there 1st then hauling the mattress up there.

I would consult an architect he may have more options,I don't know how high the peak is but you have to consider if extending the rafters will a affect ceiling height and room sizePlus the proper insulation depth is something to consider for comfort and energy savings.

I did similar on a home, I did install chutes but I framed up a small cubby space on each side of the houseYou could do the same, vent into that space, and then power vent out the gableIt also makes it real easy to wire the place and hide any plumbing venting you have coming through the spaceJust an ideaGood Luck

The major problem is that for air to circulate efficiently, you need to have space between the insulation and the roof with vents at both the tail and peak between each truss If the house was build in 1917 (?), it was likely constructed using rough-hewn fir wood; the most likely dimension being 2x4sRegardless of what type of insulation you use, it won't leave much space for air to circulateMy suggestion is that you fir out the existing framingRun 2x4s (on edge) perpendicular to the truss at 2 foot intervals; secured into place using hurricane truss hangersUse fibreglass insulation battens between the 2x4sAt the peak, measure down about 2 feet and place 2x4s horizontal and level between the each side of the roof (again at 2 foot intervals) and place fibreglass between these false rafters By doing this, you'll create an unobstructed series of channels for the air to circulateThen all you need to do is drill a few three inch holes (one every four to six feet) on the underside of the overhang and place in two or three ridge vents I realize this method may be a little more expensive than other methods, however, it properly addresses the issue of air circulationAnd by doing it this way, you'll be able to rough in your electrical without affecting the existing wood, which is old, cured and very tough to cut and drillOnce done, vapour barrier and drywall is the next step.

considering we towed a 16 ft tinnie regularly with a 1976 Torana 4 cylinder car (2lt) and I currently use a Mercedes fwd 4 cyl 2.9l van to launch my 14ft glass boat, I don't see the need for a `truck' at all unless by truck you mean anything that's not a standard sedan my 14ft fiberglass boat is legally on the lightest class trailer registrable (750kg) and requires no brakes on the trailer even- checking against the rego papers on all the cars here- even the smallest japanese car here (holden astra) can legally tow it with ease and thats my sisters little buzzbox!!!

I agree w/ MT Cadditionally because Im confident the residences there rnt lots different than right here interior the Phx area Im confident U dont wanna attempt hauling super products up there (ie cloth cabinet)ought to wanna think of approximately thisdevelopment a cloth cabinet or armoire up there interior the attic on the wall that the ceiling slopes to, to get greater effective benefit of the gap U could artwork w/This beats haul'g furniture up there then having to haul it back downstairs get'g rid of it cuz he desires greater stuff to place issues on/inadditionally, if there is sufficient space to tug this off, build a pedestal w/ drawers to place below the mattress for much greater cupboard areaconsistent with possibility try this 1st then the geared up in cloth cabinet/closet aspectsadditionally, conflict by using all of his stuff w/ him determine what can go what can stay for him to go as much as the atticCant go incorrect development stuff up there 1st then hauling the mattress up there.

I would consult an architect he may have more options,I don't know how high the peak is but you have to consider if extending the rafters will a affect ceiling height and room sizePlus the proper insulation depth is something to consider for comfort and energy savings.

I did similar on a home, I did install chutes but I framed up a small cubby space on each side of the houseYou could do the same, vent into that space, and then power vent out the gableIt also makes it real easy to wire the place and hide any plumbing venting you have coming through the spaceJust an ideaGood Luck

The major problem is that for air to circulate efficiently, you need to have space between the insulation and the roof with vents at both the tail and peak between each truss If the house was build in 1917 (?), it was likely constructed using rough-hewn fir wood; the most likely dimension being 2x4sRegardless of what type of insulation you use, it won't leave much space for air to circulateMy suggestion is that you fir out the existing framingRun 2x4s (on edge) perpendicular to the truss at 2 foot intervals; secured into place using hurricane truss hangersUse fibreglass insulation battens between the 2x4sAt the peak, measure down about 2 feet and place 2x4s horizontal and level between the each side of the roof (again at 2 foot intervals) and place fibreglass between these false rafters By doing this, you'll create an unobstructed series of channels for the air to circulateThen all you need to do is drill a few three inch holes (one every four to six feet) on the underside of the overhang and place in two or three ridge vents I realize this method may be a little more expensive than other methods, however, it properly addresses the issue of air circulationAnd by doing it this way, you'll be able to rough in your electrical without affecting the existing wood, which is old, cured and very tough to cut and drillOnce done, vapour barrier and drywall is the next step.

considering we towed a 16 ft tinnie regularly with a 1976 Torana 4 cylinder car (2lt) and I currently use a Mercedes fwd 4 cyl 2.9l van to launch my 14ft glass boat, I don't see the need for a `truck' at all unless by truck you mean anything that's not a standard sedan my 14ft fiberglass boat is legally on the lightest class trailer registrable (750kg) and requires no brakes on the trailer even- checking against the rego papers on all the cars here- even the smallest japanese car here (holden astra) can legally tow it with ease and thats my sisters little buzzbox!!!