Question:
do you have to use flux when soldering copper pipes?
do you have to use flux when soldering copper pipes?
Answer:
I just welded a copper pipe closed without using any flux. It was a pain to get the solder to stick in the right place as it just wants to bead up and fall off. But in the end and after about 10 mins of messing around with it I finally got it sealed. And 6 hrs later still no leak ;)
All spacers do is make your wheels stick out for one reason or another. This will not impact anything, except the force exerted on the bearings and the axles. There used to be a ridiculous trend in the early 90's where people would get spacers to make their wheels stick out of their cars. I never understood the appeal of it, but it lead to a lot of bearing problems for these poor fools, and if their cars were new, their warranties would not cover the repairs since it was not a factory condoned modification.
I just welded a copper pipe closed without using any flux. It was a pain to get the solder to stick in the right place as it just wants to bead up and fall off. But in the end and after about 10 mins of messing around with it I finally got it sealed. And 6 hrs later still no leak ;)
Clean the end of the pipe with 'wet and dry' paper or emery cloth. Clean it by going around the pipe, not longitudinally. (that's important). Wipe the cleaned area with a smearing of flux. Apply heat just before the cleaned area, NOT on it otherwise you will quickly cause oxidation. Your torch should be about 60% of it's max. Too hot and the copper will oxidise, too cool and it won't be hot enough to melt the solder. Ensure that you are using the correct melting point solder for the job. Hold the solder in one hand and apply it to the tube, playing the flame on and off and round the pipe. You need to get the heat to just the point where the solder begins to run. As soon as the solder runs, wipe it round with a mole skin cloth. (I use a leather garden glove, it works a treat, I can wipe it round and clean without getting burned leaving the end just silvered. When you have mastered that then you can move on to joining the pipes together with an end solder socket or, if you prefer, a yorkshire soldered socket. If the copper pipe changes color to a light reddish brown then you have applied too much heat. Likewise if the solder runs off like water. You need to get the heat to where the solder is between running off and being plastic.
For the best answers, search on this site shorturl.im/avwSC As others have said, sanding the pipe with plumbers cloth is important, not just the pipe but also the inside and edges of the fitting. Flux liberally then assemble the joint. Make sure you choose a good solder, stay brite or 95/5 are both good solders for plumbing. The type of torch and fuel you use can be equally important. I like using Mapp for any plumbing up to 1 and acetylene for anything over 1 Remember a couple of rules: solder flows to the heat and solder flows where the flux goes! If you heat the joint too hot the solder will just roll off and not flow onto the copper. You can heat up the shoulder of the joint first to get it hot but before you apply the solder you should bring the heat up to the middle to top of the female fitting and the solder will flow to the heat and into the joint in a wicking action. As soon as you are done make sure you wipe the joint with a dry cloth to remove the excess flux or it will corrode the pipe and joint later and cause a leak.
All spacers do is make your wheels stick out for one reason or another. This will not impact anything, except the force exerted on the bearings and the axles. There used to be a ridiculous trend in the early 90's where people would get spacers to make their wheels stick out of their cars. I never understood the appeal of it, but it lead to a lot of bearing problems for these poor fools, and if their cars were new, their warranties would not cover the repairs since it was not a factory condoned modification.
Clean the end of the pipe with 'wet and dry' paper or emery cloth. Clean it by going around the pipe, not longitudinally. (that's important). Wipe the cleaned area with a smearing of flux. Apply heat just before the cleaned area, NOT on it otherwise you will quickly cause oxidation. Your torch should be about 60% of it's max. Too hot and the copper will oxidise, too cool and it won't be hot enough to melt the solder. Ensure that you are using the correct melting point solder for the job. Hold the solder in one hand and apply it to the tube, playing the flame on and off and round the pipe. You need to get the heat to just the point where the solder begins to run. As soon as the solder runs, wipe it round with a mole skin cloth. (I use a leather garden glove, it works a treat, I can wipe it round and clean without getting burned leaving the end just silvered. When you have mastered that then you can move on to joining the pipes together with an end solder socket or, if you prefer, a yorkshire soldered socket. If the copper pipe changes color to a light reddish brown then you have applied too much heat. Likewise if the solder runs off like water. You need to get the heat to where the solder is between running off and being plastic.
For the best answers, search on this site shorturl.im/avwSC As others have said, sanding the pipe with plumbers cloth is important, not just the pipe but also the inside and edges of the fitting. Flux liberally then assemble the joint. Make sure you choose a good solder, stay brite or 95/5 are both good solders for plumbing. The type of torch and fuel you use can be equally important. I like using Mapp for any plumbing up to 1 and acetylene for anything over 1 Remember a couple of rules: solder flows to the heat and solder flows where the flux goes! If you heat the joint too hot the solder will just roll off and not flow onto the copper. You can heat up the shoulder of the joint first to get it hot but before you apply the solder you should bring the heat up to the middle to top of the female fitting and the solder will flow to the heat and into the joint in a wicking action. As soon as you are done make sure you wipe the joint with a dry cloth to remove the excess flux or it will corrode the pipe and joint later and cause a leak.
wheel spacers effect vehicles performance
wheel spacers effect vehicles performance
