Drying leaves VERY fast! need help quick! :(?

Okay, for biology we had to dry leaves and i messed mine up when i was pressing them.i now have 30 hours to completely dry 30 leaves so they wont crumble and turn brownwhats the fastest way possible? i read that microwaving them is a good idea? should i do that and then press them in book?

Depends on exactly where the leak is locatedSurely if you mean where the aluminum goes in to the copper stub on the compressor that should be able to be fixedYou can soldier aluminumIt might take a specific soldier to do it But you said it two waysIf you are talking about the copper stub where it meets the compressor can, then I agreeIt is near impossible to fixThat is part of the compressorThere is oil in there which you can't cook and the compressor housing acts as a huge heat sink and it is steelBy the time you heat the housing up enough to braze and accept the repair, it is hot enough to melt or burn the copperThen the oil inside will burn, can even catch fire, and the compressor is shot anyway, even if the oil just gets cookedBut without seeing it exactly, I would think you should be able to replace the compressor for much less if it is the compressor fitting that is the problem You might try a third tech, second opinion, because you didn't get an opinion on the repair from the first techAnd yes, they would rather sell you a new systemThey make more money on itOften the tech gets a share or commission on a new system when he only gets his wages on a repairBy law they are supposed to check for leaks if they have to add refrigerantBut most leaks are too small, too slow, to locate so many don't botherBut the law says they must make the attemptAnd this wasn't a small leak.

I could fix it.there is no aluminum on a compressor so you either have it wrong or he told you a line of crapBy law they need to repair the leaks.you need to get the correct information on what is leakingTake a pic and post it on the web.i can tell you if it's repairable.

$5000 still seems high unless its a heat pump system ,,in that case both units will need replaced unless you decide to have just the compressor replaced.tough call on the leak repair.most leaks can be repaired on copper tubing,even if close to compressor,,,i'm not aware of any aluminum thats used at or near a compressor.the tubing should be copper and the compressor fitting should be copper coated steel,,,even a copper to steel or just steel only leak repair can be done using high quality solder [50% or more silver content],,but they would be within their rights not to warrenty a risky leak repair too.maybe consider replacing just the compressor,,should cost around $1500 or so,,but new compressors are only warrentied for 1 year when installed in an older unit so you are taking a chance.its ashame that the leak wasnt found within the 1st 5 years while the compressor was in warrenty.by the way,,when you say the leak is at the compressor,,do you mean the condenser?,,because they are aluminum sometimes and have an alumimum to copper connection that isnt solderable,although sometimes the tubing can be cut out where its leaking and a compression fitting can be installed [trane sells coil repair compression fittings] but i'm not really sure how reliable they are.or in the case of other brands like bryant/carrier,sometimes if the bottom loop of the coil is leaking the tech can just eliminate that part of the coil and connect the liquid line to the next higher loop,,,no big deal to me but not really an approved procedure since it reduces efficiency and capacity a little.dan

Depends on exactly where the leak is locatedSurely if you mean where the aluminum goes in to the copper stub on the compressor that should be able to be fixedYou can soldier aluminumIt might take a specific soldier to do it But you said it two waysIf you are talking about the copper stub where it meets the compressor can, then I agreeIt is near impossible to fixThat is part of the compressorThere is oil in there which you can't cook and the compressor housing acts as a huge heat sink and it is steelBy the time you heat the housing up enough to braze and accept the repair, it is hot enough to melt or burn the copperThen the oil inside will burn, can even catch fire, and the compressor is shot anyway, even if the oil just gets cookedBut without seeing it exactly, I would think you should be able to replace the compressor for much less if it is the compressor fitting that is the problem You might try a third tech, second opinion, because you didn't get an opinion on the repair from the first techAnd yes, they would rather sell you a new systemThey make more money on itOften the tech gets a share or commission on a new system when he only gets his wages on a repairBy law they are supposed to check for leaks if they have to add refrigerantBut most leaks are too small, too slow, to locate so many don't botherBut the law says they must make the attemptAnd this wasn't a small leak.

A microwave will make the water in the cells boil instantly, breaking the cellsDepending on the moisture, and some other factors, there can even be small arcs produced which could start the leaves on fireAlso, for even drying, the leaves will have to be rotated in the microwave field just like a piece of foodOtherwise parts can dry completely while other parts are still damp30 hrs sounds like a short time, but if they were placed in an oven they could all be dried quite rapidly without browningYou would have better control than in a microwaveI would test a few sample leaves first to be sure of the results212F is low for most ovens and you don't get very accurate temperature control but you should be able to keep the temperature a little above the boiling point of waterIf you can sandwich the leaves between some flat, porous material you can prevent curling without impeding the drying processSome flat pieces of aluminum window screen should work.

forget new freon, just replace the compressor if a hvac tech cannot braze the tubingor find a repair guy who canI know they'd rather sell you new stuff though.

A microwave will make the water in the cells boil instantly, breaking the cellsDepending on the moisture, and some other factors, there can even be small arcs produced which could start the leaves on fireAlso, for even drying, the leaves will have to be rotated in the microwave field just like a piece of foodOtherwise parts can dry completely while other parts are still damp30 hrs sounds like a short time, but if they were placed in an oven they could all be dried quite rapidly without browningYou would have better control than in a microwaveI would test a few sample leaves first to be sure of the results212F is low for most ovens and you don't get very accurate temperature control but you should be able to keep the temperature a little above the boiling point of waterIf you can sandwich the leaves between some flat, porous material you can prevent curling without impeding the drying processSome flat pieces of aluminum window screen should work.

forget new freon, just replace the compressor if a hvac tech cannot braze the tubingor find a repair guy who canI know they'd rather sell you new stuff though.

I could fix it.there is no aluminum on a compressor so you either have it wrong or he told you a line of crapBy law they need to repair the leaks.you need to get the correct information on what is leakingTake a pic and post it on the web.i can tell you if it's repairable.

$5000 still seems high unless its a heat pump system ,,in that case both units will need replaced unless you decide to have just the compressor replaced.tough call on the leak repair.most leaks can be repaired on copper tubing,even if close to compressor,,,i'm not aware of any aluminum thats used at or near a compressor.the tubing should be copper and the compressor fitting should be copper coated steel,,,even a copper to steel or just steel only leak repair can be done using high quality solder [50% or more silver content],,but they would be within their rights not to warrenty a risky leak repair too.maybe consider replacing just the compressor,,should cost around $1500 or so,,but new compressors are only warrentied for 1 year when installed in an older unit so you are taking a chance.its ashame that the leak wasnt found within the 1st 5 years while the compressor was in warrenty.by the way,,when you say the leak is at the compressor,,do you mean the condenser?,,because they are aluminum sometimes and have an alumimum to copper connection that isnt solderable,although sometimes the tubing can be cut out where its leaking and a compression fitting can be installed [trane sells coil repair compression fittings] but i'm not really sure how reliable they are.or in the case of other brands like bryant/carrier,sometimes if the bottom loop of the coil is leaking the tech can just eliminate that part of the coil and connect the liquid line to the next higher loop,,,no big deal to me but not really an approved procedure since it reduces efficiency and capacity a little.dan