Electric Dryer stops before end of cycle?

Dryer stops after about 10min, before clothes are dry, signals 1 beep. If I restart,it will beeps again and stops. I need to let it sit for 30min, then it will run for another 10min or so. It heats up well. I replaced the dry-sensor, no help.I have a Whirlpool Electric Dryer (GEQ9858JQ0).

I hate timed dry, it's unreliable. I just put any load on more dry with the heat setting for whites. Put the moisture sensor back on. Also, I unscrew the lint screen and clean out the trapped lint on the bottom every month, that helps the efficiency. Good luck!

Dryers can have significant reactions based on several factors. Have you cleaned your lint filter-not just pulling off the lint, but washing it in soap and water? An invisible film, caused primarily by fabric softener sheets can plug the lint filter's little holes and you won't even know they're clogged. Have you cleaned well deep inside of the machine? Tons of lint bypass the filter and gets down into the area of the machine where the heating elements are, regardless of the type of fuel used to operate your machine. Also a huge fire hazard of lint continues to accumulate in those areas. Finally, the type of fabric being dried can affect the sensors. The most likely to be problematic is anything made of Microfiber (regardless of whether it's a clothing item or a cleaning cloth), followed closely by other varieties of Polyester. ALL of these factors can cause the dryer to artificially overheat, causing the sensor to shut the machine off to prevent further damage.

It threads into the sink strainer it is brass it it will be hard if not impossible to get out in one piece. Trust me it unscrews right under the sink strainer. if you have a rubber strap wrench it might help some or a small pipe wrench. If you can't budge it cut it out and remove it from the p trap. you will also have to replace the sink strainer as well. It really isn't that hard. I hope this helps.

Here's what you really need to do to fix the pipe. Turn off your water supply to the house and open the faucet to drain off the water pressure. Using a pipe cutter or hack saw, you'll have to cut your existing pipe near where the leak is. Note that many have advised using a torch to melt the solder in a close joint, but with the water in the line (because you won't be able to get the water out of all the pipe), it will take forever to heat the pipe up enough to melt the solder and the water that comes out if and when you do get it melted will be dangerously hot). Go to the hardware store and get a new coupling and see if you have enough room (straight pipe) to install this where your leak is. If you do, measure how much pipe you need to remove on the piece with the leak and cut it off. If you can't fit the coupling, you may need to remove the bad section of pipe and install a new piece of pipe. If you have to do this, you should be able to apply heat to a joint and pull out the old piece of pipe. then, use the pieces you removed to cut your new piece. Prepare your existing pipe and coupling, or new pipe and existing joints for sweating, and apply a good coat of flux.

I hate timed dry, it's unreliable. I just put any load on more dry with the heat setting for whites. Put the moisture sensor back on. Also, I unscrew the lint screen and clean out the trapped lint on the bottom every month, that helps the efficiency. Good luck!

Dryers can have significant reactions based on several factors. Have you cleaned your lint filter-not just pulling off the lint, but washing it in soap and water? An invisible film, caused primarily by fabric softener sheets can plug the lint filter's little holes and you won't even know they're clogged. Have you cleaned well deep inside of the machine? Tons of lint bypass the filter and gets down into the area of the machine where the heating elements are, regardless of the type of fuel used to operate your machine. Also a huge fire hazard of lint continues to accumulate in those areas. Finally, the type of fabric being dried can affect the sensors. The most likely to be problematic is anything made of Microfiber (regardless of whether it's a clothing item or a cleaning cloth), followed closely by other varieties of Polyester. ALL of these factors can cause the dryer to artificially overheat, causing the sensor to shut the machine off to prevent further damage.

It threads into the sink strainer it is brass it it will be hard if not impossible to get out in one piece. Trust me it unscrews right under the sink strainer. if you have a rubber strap wrench it might help some or a small pipe wrench. If you can't budge it cut it out and remove it from the p trap. you will also have to replace the sink strainer as well. It really isn't that hard. I hope this helps.

Here's what you really need to do to fix the pipe. Turn off your water supply to the house and open the faucet to drain off the water pressure. Using a pipe cutter or hack saw, you'll have to cut your existing pipe near where the leak is. Note that many have advised using a torch to melt the solder in a close joint, but with the water in the line (because you won't be able to get the water out of all the pipe), it will take forever to heat the pipe up enough to melt the solder and the water that comes out if and when you do get it melted will be dangerously hot). Go to the hardware store and get a new coupling and see if you have enough room (straight pipe) to install this where your leak is. If you do, measure how much pipe you need to remove on the piece with the leak and cut it off. If you can't fit the coupling, you may need to remove the bad section of pipe and install a new piece of pipe. If you have to do this, you should be able to apply heat to a joint and pull out the old piece of pipe. then, use the pieces you removed to cut your new piece. Prepare your existing pipe and coupling, or new pipe and existing joints for sweating, and apply a good coat of flux.