When installing fence posts for a 6 foot high privacy fence, I have gotten a few different inputs reference cement. Specifically, should what would you recommend and why: 1) dry pack cement into the hole and don't add water (let nature do it over time; does this jeopardize the plum of the posts initially); 2) dry pack cement into the hole and then add some water; 3) premix and then add to the hole; or 4) use quick drying cement.
I have seen the results of dry-packing: It does not work, whether water was added at first, or by nature. Concrete does not work unless it is mixed. Many fence installers will tell you otherwise, but they don't do much real concrete work. Dig the hole where you need it, twice the size of the post and at least 2' deep. Pour at least 4-6 of concrete into the hole first (gravel is good also, but dig the hole deeper if you are planning on that) , then set the factory end of the post, or a post with appropriate end treatment into the mud. Make sure the post is in the fence line, and plumb both ways. Brace it, then fill the rest of the hole with properly mixed concrete. You need to have solid concrete on all sides of the post. Fill the hole slightly higher than ground level, then slope the excess concrete away from the post. Do not disturb until the concrete is fully set around the post. (at least a day) Not doing so will allow water to creep in around the post, allowing rot sooner.
This Site Might Help You. RE: Fence Posts and Cement? When installing fence posts for a 6 foot high privacy fence, I have gotten a few different inputs reference cement. Specifically, should what would you recommend and why: 1) dry pack cement into the hole and don't add water (let nature do it over time; does this jeopardize the plum of the...
If you live in an area where there is below zero weather I would rent a post hole digger with an 8 auger and drill 4 feet. (If you have numerous posts to do it is always a good idea to contract this out 50 or more posts. Most outfits will give you a price for drilling and setting the post). Clear any loose dirt and at the base of the hole make it bell shaped then pack it down. It is not essencial but a good idea to put abour 4-6 of gravel into the hole. Making the hole bell shaped in the bottom will help anchor your post when pouring the choice of concrete. Once all the holes are dug place your posts in and screw 2X4 lumber perpendicular to each other to the post then stake the other end to the ground and screw it to the stake to keep the posts plumb. Do this to each post then run a line to make sure all the posts are in line to each other. I prefer to use sakrete concrete mix (home depot) it is a ready mix that you dump in the hole and then add water. It is stronger than the post hole mix and will not erode quickly. Also it is not as expensive as the other concretes. It is affordable and durable. I would use 2 bags per hole. Then you can put soil on top to make the yard look more natural and not worry about trimming grass around a pillar of cement sticking out. You will also have the piece of mind that your post is cemented and it will not erode. I hope this helps
I use wet concrete and a few hours later when its begun to set hose the footing with a load of water to settle the ground and make sure the cement fully swells up.. If you use wet cement you will have to brace the post until it sets if you use semi dry you can tamp it firm and hold the post fairly firm wet concrete will swell up more giving a better footing is my opinion is a good idea to put a shovel full of loose gravel into the bottom of the hole, before you pour the footing to help drainage.. if I was doing the job for myself I would use the driest pressure treated lumber possible and soak the ends that will go into the concrete in a bucket of creosote for at least 24 hours
