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Help with tiling on walls?

Is there a site you know that would be helpful for this. I am going to be doingthe kitchen walls, no back splash from counter. Tile will start at counter go up to bottom of cabinets.I was thinking of using a regular tile then half way up putting a 6 inch strip of glass tile, they are smaller really add SPUNK! lol I need some pointers on doing it though. Or any tips you might have.THANKS!

Answer:

With no offense to others who answer, nor to you, certainly WEB SITES may help,,, as well as one who answered concrete backer board. After installing thousands of sq. ft. of tile I have some thoughts. Not wondering at all about your design, which is totally up to each individual, you'll need to know the basics of hanging tile on a verticle surface. While realizing that a verticle surface defines Shear weight as it relates to tile, you'll certainly need spacers for grout lines, a decent rapid set mortar, etc. You don't state the size of the tiles? 4 inch? 6 inch? I also wonder what your counter surface is now, and the backsplash issue? The backer board offers a surface more likely to accept mortar in its texture, holding it better than drywall, and certainly offers more durability with regard to a kitchen,,,or bath, in its water resistance issues. Many small tile sections, IE: 1 inch/ 2 inch are usually mesh paper backed to help them stay in a predetermined place in spacing. The task is only different in that you're battling the natural laws of physics and gravity when you apply tile to a verticle surface. I offer this then leave you to ponder. NEVER extend yourself or any job, farther than can be managed without error, or having to lay a pile of bricks against a wall to hold up newly installed tile. Knowledge is usually something we acquire AFTER we NEED it, and Patience is truly a virtue in this case for a DIY. Steven Wolf (The Rev.)
This site should help-
How okorder Any image on tiles
It's a great look you are going to love it!! Here's what I know. Buy the triangular wedges type spacers. The will hold the tiles up in position better than the X type. you pull these out once the tile is set. Be sure that you start your accent pieces directly 1/2 space over from your tiles, you don't want the lines to accidentally match up, that just blows the whole line appeal out of the park. So cut your first accent so that it ends in the middle of your lower tile. That should give you the proper off set. Be sure to use mastic especially designed for wall applications. Standing up on the wall, it must be more stiff from the start than your flat surfaces. Same goes for the grout, mix it just a tad more firm than you'd like to work with, it will stay up better. Nothing worse than the grout running down. That's all I know. I've done it a few times and am always so proud. What a savings!!
A very common decision to make when re-tiling is whether to tile over existing tile or remove the old tiles first. It is quite common to tile over existing tile, and should not be a problem, but there are a few points to bear in mind, or worth considering. If tiling over tile The existing tiles must be soundly bonded to the walls. Obviously, no matter how well fixed the new tiles are, if the old tiles de-bond from the wall and fall off, then so will the new ones. Make sure the old tiles are well fixed. One way to check is to gently tap them. If it sounds very hollow then they are likely not well bonded. Pay particular attention to wet areas which are more likely to have problems. The existing tiles need to be clean and free of grease or other contaminants which could affect the bond of the adhesive used for the new tiles. Some backgrounds such as plaster and plasterboard have a recommended weight limit for a square unit of measurement. That means that for instance plasterboard will have a maximum weight of tiles or stone you can fix to it, which if surpassed may cause a structural failure. This is unlikely to be a problem if both old and new tiles are smaller format, thinner tiles, but could be an issue if using large format, heavier tiles on top. It especially likely to be a problem with natural stone tiles which tend to be heavier due to their thickness. Only certain tile adhesives are suitable for tile on tile. Check manufacturers instructions .

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