How can I melt down copper pipe?

A friend gave me some extra copper pipe that he had from a job and I decided to melt it down and make a decorative wind chime for my grandmotherMy question is how can I get a heat source to melt down copper? The material has a melting point of almost 1100 degrees Celsius. Is there something I can buy that will help me with this? I just want to get the pipe hot enough to make it ply able so I can etch decorations for the wind chime.

You're supposed to fill the master-cylinder to the top between bleeding the LR first, RR second, RF third and LF last.

Are you letting the Air out and closing the Valve properly? DO IT SLOWLY Open valve Push peddle to floor slowly close valve release slowly Repeat Unless its a clutch. Thats another story

you need to gravity bleed your brakes first,fill the reservoir and open the bleed screws and let the fluid flow in to a clear bottle,start with the farthest wheel from the master cylinder,,and go from there with it,its going to take a while now to get brakes back on it ,if you have anti lock brakes its not a very fast procedure to do,one wheel at a time,start from the back and come forward with it,then you,ll get brakes back on it,don't pump them,not anti lock brakes,gravity bleed them,you ,may also need help with doing this,good luck with it.,,PS and don't let the Master cylinder ever go dry while your doing this,then you have to start all over if you do,good luck.

Clean the end of the pipe with 'wet and dry' paper or emery cloth. Clean it by going around the pipe, not longitudinally. (that's important). Wipe the cleaned area with a smearing of flux. Apply heat just before the cleaned area, NOT on it otherwise you will quickly cause oxidation. Your torch should be about 60% of it's max. Too hot and the copper will oxidise, too cool and it won't be hot enough to melt the solder. Ensure that you are using the correct melting point solder for the job. Hold the solder in one hand and apply it to the tube, playing the flame on and off and round the pipe. You need to get the heat to just the point where the solder begins to run. As soon as the solder runs, wipe it round with a mole skin cloth. (I use a leather garden glove, it works a treat, I can wipe it round and clean without getting burned leaving the end just silvered. When you have mastered that then you can move on to joining the pipes together with an end solder socket or, if you prefer, a yorkshire soldered socket. If the copper pipe changes color to a light reddish brown then you have applied too much heat. Likewise if the solder runs off like water. You need to get the heat to where the solder is between running off and being plastic.

Copper's melting point is 1,984 degrees Fahrenheit.

You're supposed to fill the master-cylinder to the top between bleeding the LR first, RR second, RF third and LF last.

Are you letting the Air out and closing the Valve properly? DO IT SLOWLY Open valve Push peddle to floor slowly close valve release slowly Repeat Unless its a clutch. Thats another story

you need to gravity bleed your brakes first,fill the reservoir and open the bleed screws and let the fluid flow in to a clear bottle,start with the farthest wheel from the master cylinder,,and go from there with it,its going to take a while now to get brakes back on it ,if you have anti lock brakes its not a very fast procedure to do,one wheel at a time,start from the back and come forward with it,then you,ll get brakes back on it,don't pump them,not anti lock brakes,gravity bleed them,you ,may also need help with doing this,good luck with it.,,PS and don't let the Master cylinder ever go dry while your doing this,then you have to start all over if you do,good luck.

Clean the end of the pipe with 'wet and dry' paper or emery cloth. Clean it by going around the pipe, not longitudinally. (that's important). Wipe the cleaned area with a smearing of flux. Apply heat just before the cleaned area, NOT on it otherwise you will quickly cause oxidation. Your torch should be about 60% of it's max. Too hot and the copper will oxidise, too cool and it won't be hot enough to melt the solder. Ensure that you are using the correct melting point solder for the job. Hold the solder in one hand and apply it to the tube, playing the flame on and off and round the pipe. You need to get the heat to just the point where the solder begins to run. As soon as the solder runs, wipe it round with a mole skin cloth. (I use a leather garden glove, it works a treat, I can wipe it round and clean without getting burned leaving the end just silvered. When you have mastered that then you can move on to joining the pipes together with an end solder socket or, if you prefer, a yorkshire soldered socket. If the copper pipe changes color to a light reddish brown then you have applied too much heat. Likewise if the solder runs off like water. You need to get the heat to where the solder is between running off and being plastic.

Copper's melting point is 1,984 degrees Fahrenheit.