Spackle is not doing the job.
go to like Menards or home depo and tell theam your problem you need a metal mesh put that on the hole,spackle,let dry a day ,sand dpwn than re paint
You need something behind the joint compound to hold it. If you just try to fill the hole with mud, you'll get nothing but a wall full of plaster. I usually use newspaper, its cheap and holds the plaster . Fill it in a few times, tape and Spackle, sand it flush.
You can get mesh tape from Home Depot or hardware store to cover hole. Know it sounds crazy but if you use something like a wad of newspaper to put in hole it will help give strength to hole, won't be as easy to mash in again. Tape should have sticky backing and just cut and stick piece over hole. I use what I call sheetrock mud, different from spackeling, and apply a coat over tape, use a sheetrock knive(puddy knife) around 6 in. If mud is too thick, can add small amount of water to thin, but be sure it is blended well. Apply mud but be sure not to leave any edges, use edge of knife at a tilt to remove. Then after dried apply a thin coat then remove all excess, called a skim coat. Let dry completely. Sand smooth with med to fine sandpaper, block sander easier to hang on to. Paint!!! Hope this helps!
DIY Docs suggestions work well .. expecially for larger holes but this way works great for small holes and it is cheap-- all it takes is some simple supplies (a drywall knife, drywall mud (spackle will do), a piece of drywall, etc. The hard part is getting it smooth and then matching the existing paint.. First, you need a peice of drywall that is 3 to 4 inches larger on each side than the hole ... square or rectangular NOTE After you cut the flaps away below you want the patch without the flaps to be larger than the hole and and all cracks in the wall.. Second, on the back side of the patch.. Cut away approximately an inch of the plaster on the outside of the patch all around -- DO NOT CUT all the way through the patch.. Keep the paper on the front intact! Clean off all of the plaster middle from the paper flaps. Place the patch against the wall over the hole.. mark the patch on the wall (mark the area of full thickness only.. neglect the paper flaps on the patch) Cut the hole in the wall larger so the patch will fit snugly.. and squarely.. To make a perfectly smooth wall you should trim away just an inch or so of the top paper on the wall around the patch area..so the paper flaps on the patch can be recessed into the wall. Paint an even layer of drywall mud on the backside of the paper flaps and fit the patch.. using the mud to secure the patch to the wall. Once that drys it will probably take another coat (or 2) of drywall mud to make it smooth.. Note: Drywall mud is made to shrink slightly as it drys.. regardless do not put too much on. It is better to smooth it while it is wet.. or use a damp spongy when it is dry to smooth it. Before painting.. use a bit of drywall primer.. to seal it.. There are commerically available patch kits that use metal plates that you drywall screw into place..both on the wall and on the drywall patch.. They actually work well I have used them in places where the above (paper flaps) is not practical (e.g., for larger holes).
MUD alone won't DO the job. I suggest cut a larger square, use Liquid nails, or screws to attach shims/1x2's/2x2's, etc inside the wall cavity against the inside face. Cut a scrap piece of appropriate drywall to size, install it in the hole, tape, mud, sand, paint. If you happen to be near enough to a stud, cut your square out to the stud center, at least allowing more strength in support on that one side of the patch. I have also, often, used a 2x4 just inside the patch area, recreating a Stud, for the purpose of strength against any pushing at the patch. Steven Wolf
