I am am re-tiling the kitchen counter. Please help. Thanks.
The last floor I did has been with spacers. The tiles were very uniform and spacers make it go very quickly. Once in a while I need to remove one or two spacers to let an irregular tile fit in without making my lines bulge. I have seen every-day tile guys do it with and without, sometimes with great results and sometimes the opposite.
I tile every day of my life, and usually hang out in DIY. Tile spacers come in two sizes, 1/4 and 1/8. For a counter top I suggest 1/8. You already know they look like (+) signs, and many have rounded tips. They are also sold in what looks like a round CAP with the plus sign under that allows for corner spacing and alignment. I do not use corners specifically, in laying the spacer flat, primarily through experience, but many suggest that method. You would set a piece of tile, then another in close proximety, using the spacers to align and keep the tiles at an exatc distance from each other. The spacer also makes a great scoop for wiping out excess mortar or mastic that squeezes up into the grout lines. I suggest 1/8 for countertops because of the purpose of the top and having the least amount of absorbent material, against the greater flat/flush surface that a counter top should be. Without knowing at all, your tile, or design, I also prefer a tile style that has bullnose sold in the same style allowing a back splash, and counter top edge/facing. I can't recall the name of REVERSE bullnose, but it would be used where the countertop, butts/meets the back splash. You may get suggestions that ramble, as I am, about sealing the grout, and you should be using a poly blend mortar and grout anyway. I'm not strictly opposed to sealers, but they do become a regular, life long process, and I am opposed to any surface finishes that come in contact with food. Obviously cutting boards work. Steven Wolf Just my two sense
this site shows you exactly what, and how to do it, hope this helps
