Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.
Without important points related to what's between the roof and the ceiling below it, regardless of if it can be a one story or two story constitution; fast fix maybe relative? If for illustration,,,and that i have got to anticipate this, that some insulation exists in an attic, crawl space, and so forth. Then absolutely that must be checked for an "R" ranking, and decide to add or change. Possibly the "venting" variety fixtures usually mounted are either absent of now not strictly realistic. Perhaps historic time approaches like attic exhaust fanatics perhaps employed? What is the constitution of your roof to the point the place under roof vents, soffit and facia exist? Without figuring out the substance of the structure, IE: Block, body, and so forth., you could try to check if correctly the partitions are insulated, and strive exchange in that also. A extra ordinary repair, however absolutely now not rapid can be to have timber blocking and shading where the solar does strike the apartment. Windows within the direction of the solar can be tinted, as they provide no, actual insulating properties. Awnings over windows on the exterior might support in small measure. I are living in primary FL. And happen to very so much experience sun and warmness, however certainly it could actually reason financial budgetary issues. There are numerous methods you could attempt to block the sun, or insulate the apartment, and all is also legitimate, even along side the others, however speedy is, as I mentioned, relative to how much effort and money you have got to put into the effort. Steven Wolf Went back to CEMENT in the original. Is the ROOF cement as well? Is this in fact a "apartment" or apartment constructing? Is the "cement" "POURED" concrete panel building, or is it "block"?
First you need to see if the foam is FIRE RATED. If you install the wrong foam on an interior surface, it is a building/fire code violation. That being said, I would use an adhesive like liquid nails to install it. Test the adhesive on a piece of foam first though to see if it melts the foam too much. If it does not. Spread the adhesive on the foam and press the foam in place. You can devise a holder to keep the foam sheets in place till the glue dries.
Visit your local Lowes, Ace, or Home Depot. Buy a caulking gun and a few tubes of industrial grade adhesive from their large selection. Read the label and choose an adhesive that mentions both plastic and metal. (If I were doing it, I would try some silicon on the Styrofoam and if it doesn't melt, use silicon, but there are dozens of different adhesives on the shelves.) Once you have the right adhesive, cut the foam to fit snugly between the roof members, and stick them up. To cover the Styrofoam, use any lightweight material you can find. I would try to find wall paper that simulates barn-board. (I have seen it somewhere.) Just apply a coat of wallpaper sizing to the Styrofoam first to give the wallpaper glue something to stick to. Most wallpapers already have the glue on the back; you just run it thru water to wet it. I use a large paint roller tray with a piece of stiff wire across it. Then I drop my cut to length strip of paper in the deep end of the tray and pull it thru under the wire. Have fun. Honey
The foamboard can be installed in between the beams Do NOT use adhesives to fasten the foamboards or drywall. The adhesive will deteriorate over time and the foamboards and drywall will fall down. Many municipalities do not allow materials to be attached only by adhesives especially on walls and ceilings. Nail or screw 1 X 3 or 1 X 4 boards under the foamboard from beam to beam spaced about 16 inches apart. Screw drywall for fireproofing to the 1 X 3s or 4s and this will also hide the foam boards. Tape and seal the joints
