One will carry hot water, another one cold. They will cut through the base board of the house, then run underneath the deck to the hottub. They will be used to fill the hottub. You ask, why don‘t you just use a garden hose? - Too much work. Especially in the winter. The house is in the mountains, and gets a lot of snow. The external faucet may freeze, and then I‘d need to run the hose through the living room into the basement, i‘ve done it once, had enough. Also, the house is a vacation rental, and if the hottub is a mess, i need to change it quickly. So here are my questions:1. In the winter months, the temperatures drop below zero. If I turn on the cold water, it starts flowing through a very very cold brass pipe, will it turn to ice midway?2. Do you know of any mechanical flow control shut off valves that can be set to deliver precise number of gallons, say 450, and then shut off. It would also be nice if it back drained the pipe into the sump after it shuts off!
use cold climate hose bibs to pipe the water to the outside. they are recessed in the wall far enough to prevent freeze up. as for metering the water, yes there are ways to do it but you are talking like 1500 or 2000 to get the parts and install. there may be cheaper ways that I don't know about.
your best info to round up these needed materials will be at the commercial desk in the HoDepot or Lowe's . the 30amp breaker in the home panel will support the 220volts required to run the outside condenser the 10 gauge power [AWG] is a romex cable that has three wires in that cable the exterior needs conduit PVC pipe to protect the wire from water and denote that it is an electric connection the outside disconnect is in a box like a small electric panel for the purpose of cutting the power to install or work on the condenser unit it would be good to put that cable that is in the basement in PVC additional information the 10/2 w/gnd [[ ten gauge wire-two wires inside are black white with a bare copper wire as the ground electricity actually screws around the wire and not thru as some folks think . the more power drawn thru the wire the tighter the screw and when it is too much power for the wire [[any wire]] to handle the breaker trips or turns off following the above will accomplish what the A/C dude has asked and will be in code leave a foot or two extra as requested on each end of the power wire so that there is plenty of wire to connect to those panels . again this is basic and anything you do not understand can be easily explained at the hardware giants . when you start working with all the materials you will find it is much easier than you think --- let the A/C man connect that 220volt wire . be safe AWG is a standard -- american wire gauge -- it is a contraction in the electric biz
Its a good idea but will involve a little work, less than dragging a hose out there in winter. Right after you tap in to hot and cold install two valves and two tees leave the socket opposite the run facing down install two nipples and valves to provide a drain off to your lines.Pitch the water line back to the basement on your run to the tub. Leave your faucet open at the tub make sure your drain valves are shut open hot and cold until tub fills. Shut off supplies open drain valves and drain to a bucket the lines will drain with no possibility of freezing. As far as measuring the 450 gallons short of a water meter I don't know but I know the configuration I have detailed will.
