I am updating my with copper pipes , up to code. my question is can my new ground wire that that goes to?

can i put my electrc ground wire coming from the electric box in any copper line in the house?

If the water supply from the street is copper, or even steel, that is a better ground than any copper rods. Your electric codes might insist on the rods, but adding your main ground to the underground water supply cannot hurt.

When you had your tire replaced was the wheel balanced with the new tire? And, how different is the tread pattern from the one that you have on your rear tire. A narrower pattern on the front may be picking up the rain grooves in the road and giving you the feeling of instability. Also check your distances from front to back axle on both sides of the cycle.

Are they both the same type tire? If one is a radial and the other isn't you'll get bad handling problems.Also never go by the pressure listed on the tire.That is a max pressure for a max load.I really doubt the pressure should be more than 38 to 40 psi.When the tires get hot the pressure goes up even higher.

If the water supply from the street is copper, or even steel, that is a better ground than any copper rods. Your electric codes might insist on the rods, but adding your main ground to the underground water supply cannot hurt.

Call a local licensed electrical contractor and tell them that you need your grounding and bonding brought up to code. You need to drive ground rods. The NEC requires 2 rods, 8ft long (driven all the way into the ground), and spaced at least 6 ft apart. Some local codes do require more than this (longer rods, further apart, etc.). This will be #6 copper, bare, stranded wire, with no cuts/breaks. Again, this is NEC requirements. Check local codes for variations. You need to run a 'bonding' wire to your water pipes (no, it does not necessarily have to be at the water entrance if you have ground rods). The size of this depends on the size of the service entrance wire. For a typical 200 amp service, you will be looking at a #4 copper, bare, stranded wire. You will need to run this to the hot water tank, or some other location where you can connect to both the hot and cold. Do not cut the wire. Run it to both pipes as a continuous wire.

Are they both the same type tire? If one is a radial and the other isn't you'll get bad handling problems.Also never go by the pressure listed on the tire.That is a max pressure for a max load.I really doubt the pressure should be more than 38 to 40 psi.When the tires get hot the pressure goes up even higher.

based upon the age of your place you're able to desire to truly have a copper cord going from the meter base to a pushed grounding electrode interior the earth close to the meter base. Water pipe grounding is to boot to the grounding electrode. while you're changing all the pipe on your place with plastic it won't could desire to be grounded. besides the shown fact that while you're leaving any copper pipe interior the homestead or buried interior the earth coming to the homestead it desires to be bonded to the panel. in case you haven't any longer any pushed grounding electrode that's an 8 ft. 5/8 inch thick galvanized rod or copper rod in case you have chose and can be pushed at a 40 5 degree to ninety degree attitude. Any much less attitude and it won't meet code. The grounding electrode conductor could desire to be continuous and not spliced between the meter base and the relationship to the floor rod (electrode) the relationship on the electrode could desire to be made with a ideal grounding clamp it relatively is rated for direct floor burial. do no longer enclose the conductor in metallic pipe occurring the wall to the rod or you will open different codes standards. you're able to be able to enlcose it in %electric conduit with inflicting different codes difficulty to upward thrust up. The NEC demands a minimum of a #6 AWG grounding electrode conductor yet maximum skill companies interior the U. S. require you to upsize it to a # 4 AWG

based upon the age of your place you're able to desire to truly have a copper cord going from the meter base to a pushed grounding electrode interior the earth close to the meter base. Water pipe grounding is to boot to the grounding electrode. while you're changing all the pipe on your place with plastic it won't could desire to be grounded. besides the shown fact that while you're leaving any copper pipe interior the homestead or buried interior the earth coming to the homestead it desires to be bonded to the panel. in case you haven't any longer any pushed grounding electrode that's an 8 ft. 5/8 inch thick galvanized rod or copper rod in case you have chose and can be pushed at a 40 5 degree to ninety degree attitude. Any much less attitude and it won't meet code. The grounding electrode conductor could desire to be continuous and not spliced between the meter base and the relationship to the floor rod (electrode) the relationship on the electrode could desire to be made with a ideal grounding clamp it relatively is rated for direct floor burial. do no longer enclose the conductor in metallic pipe occurring the wall to the rod or you will open different codes standards. you're able to be able to enlcose it in %electric conduit with inflicting different codes difficulty to upward thrust up. The NEC demands a minimum of a #6 AWG grounding electrode conductor yet maximum skill companies interior the U. S. require you to upsize it to a # 4 AWG

Call a local licensed electrical contractor and tell them that you need your grounding and bonding brought up to code. You need to drive ground rods. The NEC requires 2 rods, 8ft long (driven all the way into the ground), and spaced at least 6 ft apart. Some local codes do require more than this (longer rods, further apart, etc.). This will be #6 copper, bare, stranded wire, with no cuts/breaks. Again, this is NEC requirements. Check local codes for variations. You need to run a 'bonding' wire to your water pipes (no, it does not necessarily have to be at the water entrance if you have ground rods). The size of this depends on the size of the service entrance wire. For a typical 200 amp service, you will be looking at a #4 copper, bare, stranded wire. You will need to run this to the hot water tank, or some other location where you can connect to both the hot and cold. Do not cut the wire. Run it to both pipes as a continuous wire.

When you had your tire replaced was the wheel balanced with the new tire? And, how different is the tread pattern from the one that you have on your rear tire. A narrower pattern on the front may be picking up the rain grooves in the road and giving you the feeling of instability. Also check your distances from front to back axle on both sides of the cycle.