The drill barely sparks until the trigger is pushed just over three quaters of the way. after that point, excessive sparks seem to fly around the armature where the brushes are. Any ideas as to why it would be doing this and how i can fix it would be appreciated.
I would not try and do it. It doable so long as you know what you're doing. I think I get what you're saying, but if it a really extreme swerve you could lock the back tire up or go flying off.
its not a good idea unless youre really in need. in order to brake with maximum efficiency you need to be straight so you get the most tire traction. if you swerve your best bet is to swerve give a little gas then jerk that bad boy the opposite way.
Had to do it before but not recommended too dangerous. You have to really know your bike good to do it. It is better to accelerate a little when swerving instead of braking it gives you more control.
There are two possible causes, 1/. The commutator is rough and causing the brushes to 'bounce', 2/. The brushes are worn. Generally its both. Take the drill apart and clean any carbon dust out of the motor, compressed air can help. You'll have two carbon brushes with springs attached to their backs sliding in brass supports. Check these for wear by comparing the two. Each should be around 1.5cm long and slide freely in its support. If they look worn they should be replaced with new. Examine the armature for signs of overheating and damage. The commutator should be evenly worn across its width. Sand it with glass paper and clean the slots to get a good copper surface free of debris if its not. Put in new brushes and re-assemble. Might as well look at the bearings while you have the chance. Link for AEG brushes with pricing; www.google .nz/url?satsource. Link to general commutator and brush health; www.google .nz/url?satsource. GL
