I just replaced my submersable well water pump, the wire that connects the pump, the d switch, and the water tank. Everything was installed correctly and with the help of a licensed plumber. While the D switch is closed (providing power to the pump) the pump will run for about 5 seconds then shut off for about one minute. It will continue this process until the system attains proper pressure and the D switch will open, shutting off power to the pump. The pump is brand new. Why, when power is being supplied does the pump cut on and off? We have tested the current at the well head and it shows that 230 is being supplied the whole time that the D switch is closed, which is correct.
I had one doing this similarly. The well was out of water or the pump may be too high in your case. The pump has a thermal cut out that is cutting out because it is protecting itself from over heating. once it cools a bit the thermal resets and it will pump again for a short time till it gets hot again. Perhaps this is your problem it was mine. I had to drill a new well. I assume you know there are 120 volt pumps out there be sure what the old one was. 220 probably would have cooked it by now anyway. Take the cap off and listen for the pump sound if it is out of the water you will be able to hear it if not to deep.
Your problem is with pressure. The air tank needs to be 2 -4 lbs below that of the setting of the D switch. I had to change my air-tank a couple of weeks back, and I had the same problem. EDIT: the current drawn should be about 24 Amps and the line voltage is 230v with resitance at 100K ohm. for the coils. Cure: Using a good tire air valve checker, make sure the air tank is about 25- 28 lbs. Turn off all the faucets or the main valve feeding the house or garden lines. Give power to the pump. Turn the D valve nut (the one with the spring) **up** one half turn. Turn on the valve and let the water run and listen for the pump working. It should run for no more than 2 minutes. (there is a thermal cut-off in the pump that saves you blowing the pump up). When the thermal cut-off disconnects the power, don't worry, all is well. It is trial and error with the setting and is a pain in the butt, but you will get the setting right, I assure you. Remember, turn up 1/2 turn at a time... Best of luck. XX
Is the pump wired for 230 volts?
12 hours on a civic DX. I am a honda mechanic and I will say that this job only takes 2 hours, 4 hours if your slow and never done it before. Mind you this includes timing belt, water pump, cam seal, crankshaft seal, serpentine belts, valve cover gasket, spark plugs if needed, Honda coolant, and valve adjustment. If you are 1 tooth off on timing your Honda will run, but it will run very rough. Sounds to me like they may have the timing 1 tooth off, 2 teeth off and the car just wont run and if it does it will barely run. This car needs to be taken back and everything i told you should have been done and done properly. What probably happened is the dealer let an apprentice work on the car, since this civic is the easiest to do a timing belt on. However its still their fault that it was not done properly.
make sure your pump is wired 220vac. you need to restrict the flow coming out of the discharge of the pump when you are filling tanks/waterlines. Once everything is full and the pump is running at operating pressure it should quit turning off. as said above it is the thermal overload protector in the motor shutting it off. The more GPM you move the more current it pulls, current=heat. restrict it by turning your valve down by half or more.
