What vegetables and fruit trees, i.e. blueberries, pear, apple, figs, pomgrante do best using pettet lime or any other vegetable/fruit not listed above; in coastal Texas.
Liming I did two years ago still appeared to be effecting hydrangea shrubs last fall. If you can, test Ph throughout, then you can be in control and do what''s best for grass or what shrubs you may also want. Depending on the lime that might not break down as you would want in winter, just a suspicion, and if you use powdered lime that might sit on the ground till spring rains anyway. Your Ph must be abominable low to want to lime in winter. I took a Ph of 3.0 out by some pitch pines once, using an alternative ground cover there.
Lime makes soil more alkaline vs. acidic. To use it or not will depend on the individual plant. Some prefer a more acidic soil, some more alkaline.
Whilst many plants will grow quite happily in acid or alkaline soils-barring extremes of either,there are certain plants which will only thrive on a predominantly acid or alkaline. For vegetables you need to add lime for brassica (cabbage cauliflower Brussel Sprouts).Not only do these thrive on a high pH level but lime helps prevent club root disease. Conversely if you have azaleas or rhododendrons you do not want lime in contact with these because this will adversely affect them. So a unilateral spread/feed of lime is not recommended because at least some of your plants will be acid loving. I'd recommend you do a stock take first of what you have/intend to grow and selectively top dress those areas you feel will benefit and ignore the rest
I started a new lawn last fall (brand new house) and we put lime on the ground before we seeded as the soil here pretty much had nothing on it. We also plowed in a lot of leaf mulch to create topsoil. This spring, I thought I'd probably need to put more lime on but the guy at my garden center suggested I have the soil tested first. I did and discovered that I didn't need any more lime. I actually needed gypsum because we have a lot of clay here and gypsum helps break down the clay. Different types of plants need different nutrients. So you don't necessarily need more lime everywhere. I was told NOT to put lime in the beds where I have shrubs planted. I suggest you go to a good garden center (not the one at Home Depot because those guys usually don't know what they're talking about). Get your soil tested (the garden center can help you with this. It cost me $25 to get 8 soil plugs tested). Find out what you actually need before you spend a lot of money dumping stuff on the lawn and flower beds.
the physical effect of lime is an alkalizer It is not a fertilizer, but correcting soil ph (soil test recommendations) by using lime gypsum or even an acidifier like different sulfates will allow your plants to utilize nutrients to a more optimal level. Lime is a calcium supplement it bonds with the negative ions in soil, nutrients are generally negative so they will bond with the lime and can become available to plants. other wise the nutrients will leach through your soil to a lower depth and not be usable. Soil test will also show you the soil cation exchange capacity(CEC) this is your soil ability to hold and pass nutrients cations are the ions of your nutrients. the lower the cec the less fertilize it will hold. clay and compost have higher cec there are different kinds of lime with different levels of ph adjusting Some types of lime will act fast in correcting ph but only last about six months(pellet) agricultural lime is a ground up rock and can stay in the ground about three years but it takes up to six months for it to work a combination generally will work good
