Why does the dull part of aluminum foil have to be against the food?

Why does the dull part of aluminum foil have to be against the food?

This Site Might Help YouRE: I need help troubleshooting my sbc engine (backfiring through carb)? I have a short bed C10 with a new 350 engineIt has a Holley 600 electric choke carburetor, Edelbrock Performer EPS intake, headers, MSD cap and rotor, mild flat tappet and 305 headsThe engine ran fine at firstBut i ran across a friend who had some Edelbrock Elite valve covers and some.

It doesn'tWhich side of Reynolds Wrap? Aluminum Foil should I use, the shiny or the dull side? Actually, it makes no difference which side of the aluminum foil you use—both sides do the same fine job of cooking, freezing and storing foodThe difference in appearance between dull and shiny is due to the foil manufacturing processIn the final rolling step, two layers of foil are passed through the rolling mill at the same timeThe side coming in contact with the mill's highly polished steel rollers becomes shinyThe other side, not coming in contact with the heavy rollers, comes out with a dull or matte finishThe exception is when using Reynolds Wrap? Release? Non-Stick Aluminum FoilThe non-stick coating is applied during manufacturing to the dull side of the foilAlways place the non-stick (dull) side toward the food.

I presume this is a stock (other than the msd cap rotor) HEI distributor? The advance weights get stuck in those a lotIts possible they are sticking so what you think the timing is set to is not correctIs the vacuum advance working? Was it connected when it was timed? Is it manifold or ported source? Seen many people put the center contact under the coil in wrongThey run good for a while but burn up pretty quick Another thing that happens to HEI's is the wires from the pickup coil crack so as the vacuum advance operates the connection is lostConnection gets lost engine starts to die which changes the vacuum which then makes the connection again.

you had to remove the distributor to get the intake off so are you sure you got the distributor back in right? get number 1 piston all the way up and turn the crank with your hands to 0 on the timing scale and check the rotor under the capthe rotor should be pointing right at number 1 plug wire on the capyou could be off a tooth or 2 on the distributor and causing it to backfireas long as it,s in time it won,t backfire if it,s advanced too farwhen it,s advanced too far it will be hard to start after it gets hota bent valve it would be worse then what your sayingsounds more like it,s not all the way in timeif you have a vacuum advance on the distributor then it could be not working or the hose is hooked up wrongthe hose on the advance should be hooked ported ( above the throttle plate on the carburetor ) so it can advance the spark when you give it gasif it,s hooked straight to the intake then it can,t advance any because it,s advanced as far as it can once you start it.

you had to remove the distributor to get the intake off so are you sure you got the distributor back in right? get number 1 piston all the way up and turn the crank with your hands to 0 on the timing scale and check the rotor under the capthe rotor should be pointing right at number 1 plug wire on the capyou could be off a tooth or 2 on the distributor and causing it to backfireas long as it,s in time it won,t backfire if it,s advanced too farwhen it,s advanced too far it will be hard to start after it gets hota bent valve it would be worse then what your sayingsounds more like it,s not all the way in timeif you have a vacuum advance on the distributor then it could be not working or the hose is hooked up wrongthe hose on the advance should be hooked ported ( above the throttle plate on the carburetor ) so it can advance the spark when you give it gasif it,s hooked straight to the intake then it can,t advance any because it,s advanced as far as it can once you start it.

I presume this is a stock (other than the msd cap rotor) HEI distributor? The advance weights get stuck in those a lotIts possible they are sticking so what you think the timing is set to is not correctIs the vacuum advance working? Was it connected when it was timed? Is it manifold or ported source? Seen many people put the center contact under the coil in wrongThey run good for a while but burn up pretty quick Another thing that happens to HEI's is the wires from the pickup coil crack so as the vacuum advance operates the connection is lostConnection gets lost engine starts to die which changes the vacuum which then makes the connection again.

This Site Might Help YouRE: I need help troubleshooting my sbc engine (backfiring through carb)? I have a short bed C10 with a new 350 engineIt has a Holley 600 electric choke carburetor, Edelbrock Performer EPS intake, headers, MSD cap and rotor, mild flat tappet and 305 headsThe engine ran fine at firstBut i ran across a friend who had some Edelbrock Elite valve covers and some.

It doesn'tWhich side of Reynolds Wrap? Aluminum Foil should I use, the shiny or the dull side? Actually, it makes no difference which side of the aluminum foil you use—both sides do the same fine job of cooking, freezing and storing foodThe difference in appearance between dull and shiny is due to the foil manufacturing processIn the final rolling step, two layers of foil are passed through the rolling mill at the same timeThe side coming in contact with the mill's highly polished steel rollers becomes shinyThe other side, not coming in contact with the heavy rollers, comes out with a dull or matte finishThe exception is when using Reynolds Wrap? Release? Non-Stick Aluminum FoilThe non-stick coating is applied during manufacturing to the dull side of the foilAlways place the non-stick (dull) side toward the food.