I'm doing something for a lab, and the three fabrics include cotton, nylon, and rayon.Which one of the three above can be found in an acrylic/wool blend field vest?
This gets messyYOu have three options 1use the flaps on the insulation paper to span the gap and don't worry about it 2buy some un-faced insulation and lay a board on it for a guide, cut strips just slightly wider than the gap and stuff it it as you are installing the faced insulation3return insulation you have and buy stuff with wider rolls and cut off extra insulation, but leaving facing paper - tricky to do, not recommendedOh and wear goggles and dust mask as you don't want that stuff in your eyes and lungs.
Fiberglass is NASTY I only cut once tooI would take two rolls and install them overlappingOtherwise, you cut about 1/2 and stuff the needed areaCutting less than 1/2 will ruin the roll and dealing with fiberglass issues in the air and your skin.
Let's straighten out some terminologyFiber tells you the origin and chemical composition of the raw material that is spun into yarn and then woven or knit into a fabricCommon fibers include, cotton, linen, silk, wool, rayon, acetate, Tencel, polyester, acrylic, nylon, Fabrics are made from fibersYou can have, for instance, broadcloth - cotton broadcloth, wool broadcloth, silk broadcloth, cotton/poly blend broadcloth, etcOr you could have a jersey (a single-knit fabric): cotton jersey, silk jersey, wool jersey, polyester jersey, nylon jersey, etcTo answer your immediate question, an acrylic/wool blend fabric would consist of acrylic and wool fibers blended togetherIt would not have cotton, nylon or rayon fibers.
Remember to always wear gloves and basically you have the one hunk and then use an exacto knife to cut another long length about 2 wide cause basically you want to have it snug in there, you will have to get someone to help you a bit cause they will have to hold the one hunk up while you stuff the smaller hunk alongside, then when you have it all stuffed up there you have to staple plastic up there (its called a vapor barrier) to prevent moisture from accumulatingAn easier method would be to use hanging ceiling tiles you could buy the tracks and T's used from like Habitat, then the tiles are 2 X 4 ft wide and have like a little insulation on the backside.
Please, if there is time, I would urge you to reconsider the use of fiberglass for the basementI know it is a cheaper insulation material, but whatever you paid for that will be wasted money soon enoughAnd might have disastrous consequencesLet me explain why: Even the driest basement has some level of moisture seeping inIt is, after all, a box of porous concrete buried in wet dirtSome moisture is always infiltrating the walls through capillary actionFiberglas soaks up that moisture like a sponge, and as it does, it loses most, if not all its R-ValueThe damp fiberglass will also sag and settle, and fiberglass only works if evenly and losely spreadAs it settles it creates gaps behind the wall, which will eventually allow air inIn addition, because most batches are held together by an organic urea basement compound, fiberglass can eventually support mold growth But don't take my word for it The U.SDepartment of Energy recommends that basements be insulated with rigid, closed cell foam boards instead, as this material is waterproof and does not absorb waterThe foam board should be placed directly against the wall I am adding some information about the use of fiberglass in basements and a pdf document from the USDepartment of Energy concerning Best Practices for Basement Insulation I would suggest you take a look into.
