1957 Studebaker PU 350 CI SBC has 3000 miles since newInstalled new cermachrome headers and 2.5 inch exhaust, new Duragold 1000amp Battery, New dual 1 inch tube aluminum radiator (Summit) New thermostat, new temp fan switch new high flow aluminum water pump, new 12 psi pressure cap, new coolantForced air 16 inch 7 amp fan in aluminum shroudNothing I have tried to get this thing to run below 220 degrees in stop and go traffic seams to workOn open hi-way at freeway speeds it is fineI just want to crush this beast! Should I install a brass radiator next?
I'll vote, but in all fairness some of the pieces are more exciting and one piece is significantly shorter than the othersAnyway, here's my vote: 1B 2A 34 43 55 EDIT: I'd made a mistake(55), but I never thought JK Rowling to be the best author, but I always thought she's a great story tellerWhy don't you rank them, too, Fate?
No, a brass radiator will not helpLike the other guy said, first, put in a lower temperature thermostatLike if it had a 195 in it, put in a 185My 1988 Dodge Aries had a similar problem when I first moved to LA in 2001 in the hot weatherThe problem was that air trapped in the cooling system could not get past the thermostatThe problem was solved by drilling a 1/8 diameter hoe in the flange to the thermostat and putting the thermostat back in so that hole was at the topMake sure you deburr the hole wellAs for running at 220, I don't really recall about a car that old but in June I ran a Cobalt at 230F for a good hour when making the 5000 foot climb out of Death Valley in 119F heatAnd the over heat mark on the temperature gauge on my daughter's Cavalier is at 265FAs long as you have good hoses and the correct pressure rating radiator cap, you should be OK at 220 anywayIf it goes over this, roll down the windows and turn on the heater for more cooling.
