how can i sudder a copper pipe close to concrete wall ,its driving me crazy?
i assume that the wall is stealing your heatif this is the case, you really only have two options 1) go to the other side of the wall (i bet this means dig up the pipe) and cut out about 3' of pipe. cut and fit all the joints that you cant get to to solder. use a scratch awl to make lines on the joints so that your elbows can be re aligned. take the assembly apart and lay it out on the floor or where ever you can solder it. sweat the assembly together on the floor and put the finished assembly back through the hole in the wall. now all you have to do is sweat a couple couplings. 2) get a compression fitting and use it at the wall (dont use dope or Teflon on a compression fitting) all my best, Possum
Charlie has the right idea. Cut the pipe on either side of the wall, and slide a piece of PEX type tubing inside the old copper pipe. They make conversion fittings that require no tools [one brand is called 'Sharkbite'] so you can leave the original copper on both sides of the wall. You can also use soft copper if you choose. Do not use the TV gimmicks, they are a temp fix if they work at all. As soon as there is pressure inside the pipe, the sprays will fail. If it is a concrete or block/brick wall, moisture seeping inside can freeze and will break the bricks, creating a whole new problem.
Soak a towel to put between the wall and a piece metal like a cookie sheet.,,,,or slit a tin can open and use that. Keeps the concrete from blowing up in your face from the heat. The solder should flow all around the joint once youre able to get some heat maintained on it If the Popping Concrete or Solder Flow is not what's giving you probs,,,add some more specific details to your question
