It froze, thawed, and now has three big holes in it.The pipe is copper.
its really not to hard you will need a few things a piece of pipe the same size around and longer than the damaged area ,a small torch 5 bucks at wally world some sand paper sodder with a flux center a pip cutter theres all kinds between five and ten bucks or a hack saw if you choose a hack saw you want to make the cut as clean and straight as possible. a pipe cutter does a nicer job and makes fitting and soddering easyer step one turn off the water between the leak and the meter there may not be a valve other than the meter . step 2 look at the pipe and choose two places on each side of the leak where the pipe is in good condition not swollen bent ect. mark and cut the pipe to remove the damaged area now sand the fresh cuts to remove any burs or tarnish. now cut the new pipe to fit in to the place where the old one was now you need one coupling and one union when you get your parts get some one to help get the right ones all they do is fit over the joint on each end of the new pipe. any way dry fit all the pieces to make sure they fit tight .light the torch and heat the area you want to sodder the sodder will run to the heat so heat below the seam and touch the sodder to the seam (this process is called sweating) do the same thing to all the seams all the way around let cool turn on the water and see how good a job you did good luck you can do it.
I agree with Mark but I'll give you a little more detail for the repair. First, turn off your water. Make sure there is no water in the affected area because the water will prevent the pipes from reaching a temp needed for proper soldering. Also, open some faucets from nearby fixtures to allow the water to vent. Next, cut out the damaged section with a tubing cutter or with a hack saw. If you use the hack saw be sure and file or sand down the rough edges so that the couplings will go over the pipe properly. Plus, make sure the cut is square. Now lightly sand the ends of the of the existing copper about 1 inch back at each end and do the same thing to the inside of the new copper couplings. Now put flux inside the couplings and the ends of the existing pipes and slide the couplings into place. Measure the length of the new copper line allowing for the new pipe to fully insert into the couplings. Once that section of pipe is cut, sand the ends and apply flux, then insert into place. Use a propane torch to heat the coupling until it gets hot enough to accept solder. make sure that the area where the flame will be placed is shielded against being a fire hazard (place sheetmetal or something fire resistant there). Have the solder unrolled about 6 inches out and tap on the top side of coupling until you see it begin to melt when it hits the coupling at the joint. The joint will begin to take the solder. Do one side of the coupling joint and then quickly move to the other side. Do not keep the heat on after it is fully soldered. Next, do the other coupling. Allow the joint to cool down so the solder can fully harden. Take a wet rag and apply to speed this process up. Once cool, turn the water back on with the faucets still open. If you don't see a like in your repairs, then turn off the open faucets and recheck. Good luck with your repair.
Replace a section. Copper pipe bugles or expands when water expands in the pipe so you will need to cut far enough back from the holes and put a compression coupling/adapter and no soldering is required or a coupler on each end and a piece of copper pipe in the middle. If the pipe has small holes up to 1 inch you can use a saddle patch which is a clamp with rubber that bolts down around the pipe. Otherwise you can solder the patch with couplers or put a threaded adapter and a union and screw in a threaded nipple. The nipple can be copper, PVC or galvanized. I don't recommend galvanized because of ionic flow which corrodes the metal where the copper is depleted and the galvanized is enriched causing it to occlude and blocking flow. If galvanized is used place a dielectric between the copper and galvanized surfaces to stop the electron flow.
