I always brake with my engine. I rarely use my brakes unless I use the engine and the brakes at the same time. When I use the engine for braking, I pull out the clutch a little to graze the engine and that helps slow down. Is that bad? I don t pull the clutch all the way out, just enough to slow me down a little and then I go down some gears and release the lever and slowly come to a stop. The reason I m asking is because lately I ve been hearing a tinking noise when I down shift and use engine braking. It s like i have something on the engine and every full rotation of the engine I hear the clink. It only does this when down shifting and using engine braking. I have an 08 gs500f with 12k miles now.
Most carbs have a bleeder or drain screw where you can at least empty it .
Learn to use your brakes. Engine braking, done properly, should cause no damage. It hasn't hurt my clutch or trans in any vehicle. Current ride has 53+K and perfect clutch. Let the clutch all the way out, don't ride it or let it slip. Clutches that run in oil are made to be feathered, but overdoing it will cause wear.
engine braking when done right is perfectly fine. the reason for this is that the engine and gearbox are already spinning, using their mechanical properties to help you slow down is not going to decrease their life. BUT what you are doing is wrong. you are wearing down your clutch extremely quickly. your engine will be fine but your clutch won't be. to engine brake on a bike, downshift (and rev match) to raise the engine RPMs and minimize driveline shock. when done perfectly, you shouldn't feel much strain on the bike at all. then, with the clutch fully released begin to coast. the higher engine speeds will produce great compression and slow you down gradually. as your engine RPMs drop closer to idle, you may wish to downshift again to keep engine braking. you must be aware that the higher the RPMs the more effect your engine braking will have. BUT engine braking only works on the rear tire. if you don't rev match properly or manage your RPMs well, you could lock up your rear tire and that could cause a crash. if you can't rev match properly, practice it before you get aggressive with your engine braking. keep in mind that most bikes have pretty short gearing so you may need to downshift twice to get RPMs up to a point where engine braking is effective.
Instead of pulling in the clutch which cuts power transmitted to the rear wheel, roll off the throttle – practice this on a straight stretch of deserted road –?you will notice that you slow down (the amount varies according to bike, a high compression single cylinder will slow much more than a four, a 2-stroke will barely have any engine braking). When you have slowed sufficiently, pull in the clutch and change gear down, release the clutch and begin the process again. Again, depending on the bike, you might need to slightly increase the revs before releasing the clutch.
engine braking when done right is perfectly fine. the reason for this is that the engine and gearbox are already spinning, using their mechanical properties to help you slow down is not going to decrease their life. BUT what you are doing is wrong. you are wearing down your clutch extremely quickly. your engine will be fine but your clutch won't be. to engine brake on a bike, downshift (and rev match) to raise the engine RPMs and minimize driveline shock. when done perfectly, you shouldn't feel much strain on the bike at all. then, with the clutch fully released begin to coast. the higher engine speeds will produce great compression and slow you down gradually. as your engine RPMs drop closer to idle, you may wish to downshift again to keep engine braking. you must be aware that the higher the RPMs the more effect your engine braking will have. BUT engine braking only works on the rear tire. if you don't rev match properly or manage your RPMs well, you could lock up your rear tire and that could cause a crash. if you can't rev match properly, practice it before you get aggressive with your engine braking. keep in mind that most bikes have pretty short gearing so you may need to downshift twice to get RPMs up to a point where engine braking is effective.
Most carbs have a bleeder or drain screw where you can at least empty it .
Learn to use your brakes. Engine braking, done properly, should cause no damage. It hasn't hurt my clutch or trans in any vehicle. Current ride has 53+K and perfect clutch. Let the clutch all the way out, don't ride it or let it slip. Clutches that run in oil are made to be feathered, but overdoing it will cause wear.
