Like, when you touvh it with a negativly charged object, why do they repel? Does it mean that the electroscope is neutral to begin with?
Check with your local building codesYou may not be able toIf code allows it, you would have to replace the 220V breaker (dual) with a single, 20 amp breakerAt the service panel, cut the red wire and nut it so it can't short against anything else, and connect the black wire to the new breakerKeep the breaker trippedAt the outlet, have ready a 120 volt, AC outletNOTE: If the outlet is within four feet of a water source, it must be a GFCI outletYou may have to change the workbox to one that's designed for a 120v outletMake sure it's a deep one, since you'll have to splice short sections of 12 AWG wire to the 8 AWG wire that connected to your stove, so you can connect to your outletBlack goes to black, white to white, and green to greenCut and nut the red wireThen connect the spliced 12 gauge wires (black, white, green) to hot, neutral, and ground of your 120v outletUse quality wire nuts-no electrical tape! When done, set the breaker and check the outlet for correct powerAgain, if this isn't allowed by code, don't do itI rewired my house and I still curse the alleged professionals who did our home wiringAs Mike Holmes of Holmes on Homes says: If you're going to do it, do it right the first time.
In the power panel, remove the 2 pole breaker and install 1 120 volt 15 amp breakersConnect the old wire to the new breaker, cap the spareAt the other end, install 1 15 amp 120 volt receptacle that is a GFI if it is near a water source 6' is most common distance, and cap the spare wire with a wire nut to prevent a shortIf this is for a fixed appliance such as a refrigerator or a gas range, then the GFI is exempt conditionThen turn on the breaker.
U can do it legally, and cheaper than calling a electricianHere is what the tech can or would doYou need to have a vacant 15 or 20 amp, 120 volt breaker to startShut off the 240 volt breaker and the main powerNext, take out the 240 volt range outletTake 5 large wire nuts that will easily screw on to the 6 awg wire that fed the range plugCap off the red conductorTake a piece of 12 wire and wire nut it to the black wire Same with the white wire Pigtail the green with 12 alsoSave the other 2 wire nuts for laterInstall the outlet (brass side screwhot, silver side screwneutral or white, green screwground wire akapigtail)Now at panelRemove the black and red wire from the 240 volt breakerCap with large wire nut, the red conductorPigtail the black wire with a piece of 12 awgwire and land on the 15 or 20 amp 120 volt breakerIdentify your work so if anyone opens your panel, they will know what has been doneAll should work fineYou need to make sure the ground wire you use is green, the neutral wire you use is white and the hot wire matches the hot conductor color (black)All of this should be done while the power is OFFI repeat, Identify your workPSDo not use this in a different way like having both outletsThere would need to be in-line fuses and other problemsFollow upper instructions or don't do it at allA 20 amp outlet on a 50 or 60 amp circuit is basically unprotected and could be extremely dangerousPPSA single outlet would be preferred so the circuit is a dedicated circuit, witch below is correct (Lediy99), does not have to be gfi protected (gfci)AlsoR/S means raised steel and s/g means single gang (plaster or mud ring)Tou can get a single device receptacle, a blank device bracket and a 2 gang cover at the electrical supplyI thought it would go without saying, but below has some good points including having a electrician do this for you.
its easy - 220 - is 110 split - you just cap 1 hot off - and run the other hot
