Is it neccessary to prime the floor of an insulated garage before repainting?
I don't think so but you should make sure its FLOOR paint not regular paint. Also I think some floor paints are not designed for a garage because they can't take the chemical leaks and pressure from weight of the car. Just read the can and your good to go.
That is a pretty tough one to be honest. I have done some work in this industry and every situation can be a little different depending upon the surface of the concrete you are working on. Smooth concrete with little or no aggregate is a little easier than a surface with clearly visible aggregate/rock. For stripping, start with a commercial grade grinder with a wire brush attached. Don't grind through the concrete but take the old paint off. Using a leaf blower blow all old paint, dust, debris, etc, off. Next, using old rags wipe the ENTIRE area that paint/sealant is to be applied with Xylene (an industrial strength solvent) that is HIGHLY FLAMMABLE. Wear gloves as Xylene can be absorbed through the skin and is toxic/carcinogenic. Use the heavy disposable type nitrile gloves as regular latex will deteriorate very quickly from the Xylene. Be certain concrete surface is CLEAN AND DRY. Apply and cure appropriate sealant/paint. There are countless varieties out there depending upon the surface, intended use, chemical and environmental exposure, etc. A word of warning and disclosure, most of the work I did was under the supervision of a foreman and we were fixing botched DIY jobs where average folks tried to seal, paint or surface garages, patios and decks. Often times the highest expense to the customer was the labor cost involved in removing what they tried to apply themselves. I would recommend getting a quote from a licensed contractor who works in the sealants and coating industry first. Make an educated decision from the potential cost of doing it yourself or paying someone who will do and stand by their work....If the paint/surface/sealant fails it will be their dime, not yours. I would go this route myself before doing my own garage and I have done this work in the past. Hope this helps and good luck!
When it comes to painting Garage floors , follow every trick in the book, getting a good permanent adhesion is the hardest part, so do everything your paint manufacturer recommends. Select a paint that is recommended for GARAGE FLOORS! Here are the basics to make sure it lasts.Steam clean the floor of all oil spots. If the floor has smooth finish, rough it up before Priming. Prime using 2- light coats wait 24-hrs. between coats. It will be 3-days before you can drive on it. If youe just must drive on it sooner put carpeting in the path of the vehicle, to stand on.
I'm not sure of your exact situation, but when I've seen it done there are several specific steps. First and foremost, you have to be certain no moisture is coming up through the slab. I've read the best way to check is to tape a 3' X 3' piece of heavy (6 mil or so) plastic to the concrete (tape the edges very well so moisture can't escape). Leave it at least 24 hours and see if moisture has collected on the inside. If there is moisture, you'll need to address the moisture problem before you paint or it will just lift/bubble off. If the slab's staying dry, I think you next need to etch with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid, then prime and finally paint. Fine Homebuilding has had a few articles on just this project. Rust-Oleum is selling a kit at Lowe's for this. You don't want to do this lightly and end up with a big peeling mess. Hope it goes well. When they're done right I think it makes a world of difference in not just the appearance but the functionality too.
yes.. wash it well and dry completely then acid etch, dry again, and apply a good layer of demetcoat as a primer, then paint with marine grade floor paint.. this approach avoids worrying over whether there is any moisture..and costs a fortune.
