When a piece of aluminum and a piece of wood are at room temperature, which feels colder?Why?is it wood, b/c its a better conductor?If 100 J of work is done on a system and 200 J of heat leave the system, what is the change ininternal energy?please explain how you got the answer
Just one? There's usually more than one thermostat or temperature control in that circuit, find them allTest each one; they should all show 0 ohms at room temperatureIf all the control elements are okay, then it's time to test the heating element itselfFor that, you need to isolate the strings (there's probably more than one element in there, so you can have more than one heat level) and test each of them, and also test for continuity to the chassis (see if it shorted to the chassis of the dryer or one of the insulating standoffs has failed)You will need to look up the expected resistance for your elements, since YOU DIDN'T TELL US THE MODEL NUMBER OF THE DRYER or we could look it up for youBut it's not a big deal, the info is out there and easy to findYour dryer is not deadEven if the elements are broken, they're not that hard to replace and WAAAYY cheaper than a new dryerGet cracking, you can have this thing fixed by dinner time.
Ok, there are several things that could intent your crisisYour declaration that you simply checked the resistance of both thermostats and measured zero ohms says that you have normal troubleshooting advantageLet's proceedFirst, about the thermal fuse: some dryer items use a excessive restrict thermostat in lieu of a fusible hyperlinkIt is non-resettableIt blows like a fuse above a predetermined temperatureAppear for this thermostatI believe you've gotten already found itWhilst you flip the selector, does the dryer tumble or is it fully inoperative? If it does not even tumble, examine the energy on the outlet firstIs the breaker tripped? Next, determine the power on the terminal lugs of the dryerVisually inspect the wiring during your dryer for free, dangling, damaged, or burned wiresIf the whole thing looks and tests ok, unplug your dryerMeasure the resistance of the energy leads going to your heating element with it installedIt must be a low resistance but not zero ohmsFor those who get a studying of a couple of kilohms, you traditionally have a nasty connection to your aspect or a nasty elementMake sure all contacts to your aspect are easy and tightWhen you still get a high studying, put off the heating aspect (once more) and measure its resistance as in comparison with the historical oneIf they're the same, you both acquired a bad detail or there is anything else retaining your heater from workingAssess the vigour going to your heater up the road, establishing at the elementYou will have to measure 220 volts ACIf now not, go to the opposite facet of the thermostats and verify for vigour thereIn the event you do not measure voltage, you could have a foul or soiled manage swapYou could try taking away it and cleansing it with contact cleanerWhen you've got burnt contacts, you are going to need to change the control swapIt'll just take step-by-step troubleshooting to monitor down the problem.
on touching , we feel that aluminium is colder, as it is better conductor of heat than woodfor the second part, according to first law of thermodynamics, dQ dU + dW, where dQ is heat energy, dU is change in internal energy and dw is work donehere dQ - 200 J ( due to leaving the system) and dW - 100 J(due to done on the system), hence change in internal energy dU dQ - dU - 200 + 100 - 100 J(decreases)
