I own a 2011 model of Honda Unicorn. After the 5th service i experienced that front disc brakes is not so effective as it used to be. Our service manager suggested me to change our brake pads once every 6000km ours has run about 5935km. Is it true or he is just faking so he could make money out of it. And how much does a brake pad cost in Bangalore?
Slashcan is confusing altering the fluid with bleeding. Two exceptional things. Changing the fluid is listed as a provider object, and needs to be finished to keep fluid high-quality, and therefore its effectiveness. That is different to the likelihood of potentially enabling air to enter - which you would have executed. You say you opened the screws on the master cylinder. Do you mean the screws on the brake callipers, or a screw at the handlebar end. The cylinder on the manage bars is the grasp cylinder, as this feeds pressure to the calliper, or slave cylinders. Bleed screws on a motorbike master cylinder are moderately infrequent. It's viable to introduce air into the hydraulics when you use this incorrectly. Assuming you opened the bleed screws on the brake callipers, then you might have allowed air to enter when you launched the brake lever while the screw used to be open. This is in view that the pistons may just move again as pressure is released - drawing in air if the screw used to be still open. If this is at all viable you then should bleed the brakes. If you happen to don't then the brakes may just undergo serious fading if needed urgently.
If you are having trouble with your brakes, then changing the brake pads, even if they are not worn out, is one thing you can do to see if that's your problem. Sometimes brake pads get oiled from road grime or perhaps a fork seal leak, etc. Otherwise, you change the brake pads when the wear indicator is getting to the point of disappearing. Brake pads usually have a line bisecting the pads. This line is the wear indicator and can usually be seen by looking between the pad and the brake disc.
I usually just replace the pads when they're worn enough to get close to the rotors, but before they're gone and metal contacts the rotors. This happens at different mileage depending on a lot of factors, but I've never heard of anyone recommending an actual mileage figure. Maybe yours are hard to see and the guy is just giving you a ballpark figure so you'll at least check once in awhile.
Slashcan is confusing altering the fluid with bleeding. Two exceptional things. Changing the fluid is listed as a provider object, and needs to be finished to keep fluid high-quality, and therefore its effectiveness. That is different to the likelihood of potentially enabling air to enter - which you would have executed. You say you opened the screws on the master cylinder. Do you mean the screws on the brake callipers, or a screw at the handlebar end. The cylinder on the manage bars is the grasp cylinder, as this feeds pressure to the calliper, or slave cylinders. Bleed screws on a motorbike master cylinder are moderately infrequent. It's viable to introduce air into the hydraulics when you use this incorrectly. Assuming you opened the bleed screws on the brake callipers, then you might have allowed air to enter when you launched the brake lever while the screw used to be open. This is in view that the pistons may just move again as pressure is released - drawing in air if the screw used to be still open. If this is at all viable you then should bleed the brakes. If you happen to don't then the brakes may just undergo serious fading if needed urgently.
If you are having trouble with your brakes, then changing the brake pads, even if they are not worn out, is one thing you can do to see if that's your problem. Sometimes brake pads get oiled from road grime or perhaps a fork seal leak, etc. Otherwise, you change the brake pads when the wear indicator is getting to the point of disappearing. Brake pads usually have a line bisecting the pads. This line is the wear indicator and can usually be seen by looking between the pad and the brake disc.
I usually just replace the pads when they're worn enough to get close to the rotors, but before they're gone and metal contacts the rotors. This happens at different mileage depending on a lot of factors, but I've never heard of anyone recommending an actual mileage figure. Maybe yours are hard to see and the guy is just giving you a ballpark figure so you'll at least check once in awhile.
