I am currently replacing some gaskets on an outboard motor and being that it is an old motor i am having to cut my own gaskets. Is it alright to use the standard gasket material on all joins or will i need rubber gaskets in other sections like the head gasket ?
I don't know about the head gasket. They are a pretty vital part under alot of stress. For any gaskets that more or less are just there to seal the intake I'd use a tube of silicone gasket.
you mine iron in falador (dwarf) mines and to make rings you need a mold, 40 smithing, gold bar, gem and use the mold on the forge.
The thicker the material the more likely the material being contained can weep through the pores of the gasket material itself. This is a greater issue with some materials than others. A rule of thumb is to have the material thick enough to compensate for any surface face irregularities and to permit some compression. The required compression for your gasket material will depend many factors including: 1)Surface area 2)Pressure being sealed 3)Size of bolts (assuming bolts are being used) 4)Number of bolts 5)Condition of the bolts 6)Lubrication on the bolts
If it's a gasket to hold in the oil, like the crank gaskets, you'd probably have to find one that's the right size (maybe from Grainger?). These are critical. As far as cylinder head and jug base gaskets, I've made those from copper and they worked just as well as the factory gaskets, which were either steel or aluminum. I used maybe 3 layers of 2 or 3 thousandths thick copper sheet. I found it easy to use a drill press to bore out the oil passage, etc. holes. The large hole for the piston I did on a mill; it was a cleaner cut this way. Another important thing is that I used 3 layers of the copper sheet because that way it was very close to the factory gasket thickness. Use some high temp formagasket type stuff to keep this together and on the block as you assemble it. Good luck!
