Which one is the best? Fiberglass, blown foam, water-based foam, nano-cells, etcAlso, what quot;Rquot; values do they all have, and what is the difference between open and closed cell insulationWhich one is more eco-friendly? I am not worried about cost too much, but feel free to give me an idea if you wishThanks!
i would try heating the barrell slightly while trying to push it down the breech thinking about the gun powder being absent the bullett and barrell lack heat so there is no expansion of the barrell or bullett degredation so maybe it lodged? Let me know how u make out
Get a 3/8 dowel, stick it down the barrel from the muzzle (assuming that the bullet is closer to the chamber than muzzle) and start whacking it with a hammer.
Field strip the weaponInsert the largest diameter hard wood dowel into the bore so that about three inches of the dowel projects out of the muzzleUse a rubber or rawhide mallet to drive the slug backwards into the chamber and out of the boreThoroughly clean and inspect the bore afterwards to make sure that no wood of coper jacket is left in the boreBe careful when shooting reloads, some 1911s can ripple fire, leaving you with a handful and face full of shrapnel if the first round happens to repeat this problem.
Do NOT try and heat up the barrelAt worst you can ruin the heat treat on it at best the bullet just gets more stuckWhat you need to do is take the barrel out of the gunHave some sort of pad sitting on a hard surface that you can up end the barrel onIt needs to be soft enough to not let your feedramp get bent, or you need a block that you can set the barrel face onThen you need to get yourself a stout aluminum, or nylon or wood round stock that will fit down the barrelThen you need to hammer on that - and simply drive the bullet back out of the barrelIt shouldn't take too many hitsIt happens with some regularity in competition where people reload and get squibsThinkingblade
