would that work?many thanks
Definition of redundant is needed. The vessel was most likely designed with the I/B in the plans, that means X weight to sit in the water at X depth. Usually yes, just make sure and do it on the hard and put something in that area that can be utilized and has the same or near weight of that Out-drive. A generator would be my first option. If she has an inboard then she has the out stacks or flows to ventilate and exhaust properly, use that to your advantage. I am guessing that you have an Out Board that hangs off the transom or is in a well, hence redundant. A plate can be used to secure the through hull, that is what I would do if it were my vessel. You would maybe use a sea-cock, that would leave the option of re-powering and also leave it OEM. Most every mono-hull sailboat is a Displacement Vessel. A sea-cock is the ideal remedy for that, but pay attention to the displacement, load shifts can cause very extensive and often unrepairable damage to a hull. Standing water can also, so sea-cock it properly, dry it as needed and enjoy it as much as you are able to. Always wear a PFD.
Definition of redundant is needed. The vessel was most likely designed with the I/B in the plans, that means X weight to sit in the water at X depth. Usually yes, just make sure and do it on the hard and put something in that area that can be utilized and has the same or near weight of that Out-drive. A generator would be my first option. If she has an inboard then she has the out stacks or flows to ventilate and exhaust properly, use that to your advantage. I am guessing that you have an Out Board that hangs off the transom or is in a well, hence redundant. A plate can be used to secure the through hull, that is what I would do if it were my vessel. You would maybe use a sea-cock, that would leave the option of re-powering and also leave it OEM. Most every mono-hull sailboat is a Displacement Vessel. A sea-cock is the ideal remedy for that, but pay attention to the displacement, load shifts can cause very extensive and often unrepairable damage to a hull. Standing water can also, so sea-cock it properly, dry it as needed and enjoy it as much as you are able to. Always wear a PFD.
if you want to adapt brass a fitting to 1/2 copper, the brass fitting also needs to be 1/2. Whatever kind of fitting it is. Soldered, compression. Whatever.
The wood would have to be repaired before you fiber glass the hull any way as the glass will need a strong surface to bond to.
In standard plumbing configuration there are no 5/8 fittings. You have probably measured a 3/4 fitting wrong. The other possibility is that you measured a 1/2 fitting inside which represents the outside diameter of a 1/2 pipe and that is close to 5/8. If you did the second example all you need are standard 1'2 couplers. If the first example is the case you need a fitting that goes from 1/2 on one side to 3/4 on the other side expressed as a 1/2 X 3/4 female adapter for soldering two pipes together or a 1/2 X 3/4 female adapter with iron pipe thread if the pipes are threaded. There are many different combinations where it is solder on one side and thread on the other as well.
The wood would have to be repaired before you fiber glass the hull any way as the glass will need a strong surface to bond to.
1/2 inch copper pipe is actually 5/8 in diameter. So it might work. If your brass is really 5/8 in diameter than a compression fitting might be all you need. Take you fitting to a hardware store and see what they have to adapt it to 1/2 copper
if you want to adapt brass a fitting to 1/2 copper, the brass fitting also needs to be 1/2. Whatever kind of fitting it is. Soldered, compression. Whatever.
In standard plumbing configuration there are no 5/8 fittings. You have probably measured a 3/4 fitting wrong. The other possibility is that you measured a 1/2 fitting inside which represents the outside diameter of a 1/2 pipe and that is close to 5/8. If you did the second example all you need are standard 1'2 couplers. If the first example is the case you need a fitting that goes from 1/2 on one side to 3/4 on the other side expressed as a 1/2 X 3/4 female adapter for soldering two pipes together or a 1/2 X 3/4 female adapter with iron pipe thread if the pipes are threaded. There are many different combinations where it is solder on one side and thread on the other as well.
1/2 inch copper pipe is actually 5/8 in diameter. So it might work. If your brass is really 5/8 in diameter than a compression fitting might be all you need. Take you fitting to a hardware store and see what they have to adapt it to 1/2 copper
