A bit of a question for the 1911 experts roaming around herePer-say someone, who quot;knew their wayquot; around a 1911 built one on an aluminum frameTo top it all off, if the finished gun were to be chambered in .38 superhow long would this combination last? I've heard horror stories about aluminum frames, and then I've heard some wonderful thingsthis question was to see if anyone had ever thought about/done this sort of thing beforeSomething tells me that Aluminum + .38 super wouldn't last too longMost informative answer gets the ten point prize as usual.
Make 2 Cakes, And cut off the bottoms of bothPut icing on top of one of the cakes stack together and VOILA!
I don't know you can keep this from happeningBut what you do is simply cut off the top to make it even and flatHope this helps! P.SCan you send me some? lol
no, thats why professionals always trim off the tops of the cake
If you're pulling them directly from the pan and attempting to put them together you'll get that 'hump'The cakes rise more in the middle than it does to the sides and when they add together it becomes noticeable What you need to do is take a long bread knife and once the layers have cooled separately get at about eye level with the cake on the cooling rackPlace the knife even with the outer lip of the cake and cut through the hump, leveling the topOnce you've done that you'll want to frost a thin crumb layer and let it set up before frosting the final layer.
I have two concerns about using an aluminum frame for that caliberFirst, and like everyone else who answered, I don't think it will stand up to the .38 Super +P for very long (and I wouldn't want to be around when it fails)Second, the reason I believe the frame will not last nearly as long as a steel or stainless (my personal suggestion) frame is that the grooves the slide fits and rides in will wear and enlarge MUCH faster than a steel or stainless frame willThis will, in my opinion, also quickly have an adverse affect on accuracyAluminum has it's place, but I don't think it's anywhere near this kind of firearm On a side note, one of the other people who answered said that the aluminum will offer some corrosion resistanceThis may generally be true, but salt water (like sweat) attacks aluminum significantly faster than it does steel, and stainless steel is almost non-reactive to itIf he wants a lighter gun for carry, Try an XD45If I remember right they are rated for .45 +P, but call Springfield Armory to make sureWith the polymer frame they are much lighter than a 1911, and I have been very satisfied with the accuracy and the reliability of minePersonally, I don't think the weight savings of the alloy frame is worth the extra care to keep from sweating on it or the much shorter lifespan the gun will likely haveIf he isn't planning on carrying it, what is the point of lightening the gun? He'll feel a lot more recoil, especially if he does shoot the +P ammo.
