I have not long had my fazer and am made up with it. its a 2001 fzs 600 and it had 12800 miles on it when i bought it, i was wondering if i should service the calipers? the brakes feel fine and the guy i bought it off said he had recently changed the pads on the front. any advise would be great as i have read that the fazer is known for the brake calipers seizing.
Air or water interior the brake line might prepare itself as a softness on the brake lever, requiring numerous pumps earlier the brakes paintings. Air (and to a lesser quantity water) will compress while brake fluid, like each hydraulic fluids, would not compress. however the indicators you describe look the alternative. individually i might eliminate the caliper from the fork leg, take out the pads and positioned a wood lath of their place (to give up the pistons popping out thoroughly) and then pump out the pistons (use a G clamp to give up one if it strikes much less complicated than the different) – seek for any airborne dirt and mud or gunge on the piston factors. i think that this is your difficulty. If there is airborne dirt and mud you could sparkling the factors of the pistons (with grasp and brake purifier and a rag – no abrasives) for a short-term answer – ideally you could drain the gadget and take out the pistons and entirely service the calipers – replace seals and bleed nipple, flush the gadget with methylated spirits to bathe it and allow it dry. in case you might have the brake fluid replaced you will be able to desire to besides have this service completed on the comparable time. additionally study the lubrication on the grasp cylinder and lever – there could be a blob of grease and it makes an incredible distinction to the action of the lever. EDIT: btw the hot pads will take it gradual to mattress in, 50 astounding miles, so is quite no longer as helpful till then – and make constructive the compound is genuine for the motorcycle, don't be tempted to apply “race” compounds as you will on no account get them warm sufficient to apply.
Keep the brake area clean with a good wash and a blow-dry. Normally that keeps things under control, if the bike sits out in the weather most of the time that is when corrosion around the calipers is at its greatest vulnerability from oxidization and can/will cause problems. As the brakes are working fine, run it into your favorite MC Service center and ask for a simple visual test if you are not sure.
Keeping them clean is always worthwhile, at least twice a year I like to remove the calipers, take off the pads, give the calipers a good clean up (alloy wheel cleaner is good), pump out the pistons to almost completely out (use a strip of wood between piston and caliper to keep the pistons from coming out altogether), clean the sides of the pistons (nothing abrasive that could scratch them) and apply a small amount of silicon grease. You should also replace the brake fluid fairly regularly – and upgrading to steel braided lines is worthwhile – if you are unsure when it was last done you could replace the fluid at the same time and completely strip down the calipers and replace seals and bleed nipple while you are at it. The blue spot brakes on an fzs are pretty impressive stuff, mine haven’t seized, the only problem I have had is the discs are getting too thin and will need replacing soon.
Air or water interior the brake line might prepare itself as a softness on the brake lever, requiring numerous pumps earlier the brakes paintings. Air (and to a lesser quantity water) will compress while brake fluid, like each hydraulic fluids, would not compress. however the indicators you describe look the alternative. individually i might eliminate the caliper from the fork leg, take out the pads and positioned a wood lath of their place (to give up the pistons popping out thoroughly) and then pump out the pistons (use a G clamp to give up one if it strikes much less complicated than the different) – seek for any airborne dirt and mud or gunge on the piston factors. i think that this is your difficulty. If there is airborne dirt and mud you could sparkling the factors of the pistons (with grasp and brake purifier and a rag – no abrasives) for a short-term answer – ideally you could drain the gadget and take out the pistons and entirely service the calipers – replace seals and bleed nipple, flush the gadget with methylated spirits to bathe it and allow it dry. in case you might have the brake fluid replaced you will be able to desire to besides have this service completed on the comparable time. additionally study the lubrication on the grasp cylinder and lever – there could be a blob of grease and it makes an incredible distinction to the action of the lever. EDIT: btw the hot pads will take it gradual to mattress in, 50 astounding miles, so is quite no longer as helpful till then – and make constructive the compound is genuine for the motorcycle, don't be tempted to apply “race” compounds as you will on no account get them warm sufficient to apply.
Keep the brake area clean with a good wash and a blow-dry. Normally that keeps things under control, if the bike sits out in the weather most of the time that is when corrosion around the calipers is at its greatest vulnerability from oxidization and can/will cause problems. As the brakes are working fine, run it into your favorite MC Service center and ask for a simple visual test if you are not sure.
Keeping them clean is always worthwhile, at least twice a year I like to remove the calipers, take off the pads, give the calipers a good clean up (alloy wheel cleaner is good), pump out the pistons to almost completely out (use a strip of wood between piston and caliper to keep the pistons from coming out altogether), clean the sides of the pistons (nothing abrasive that could scratch them) and apply a small amount of silicon grease. You should also replace the brake fluid fairly regularly – and upgrading to steel braided lines is worthwhile – if you are unsure when it was last done you could replace the fluid at the same time and completely strip down the calipers and replace seals and bleed nipple while you are at it. The blue spot brakes on an fzs are pretty impressive stuff, mine haven’t seized, the only problem I have had is the discs are getting too thin and will need replacing soon.
