This is weird. I was having alignment issue and after inspecting suspension parts- i replaced tie rod ends, control arm bushings, ball joints and brake pads. alignment issue started when i changed the cross bearings/U joints of drive shaft last month.after doing the suspension work, alignment issue is still there. It happens like this-when i make a left turn (light or sharp turn) and then go on straight road, i see that my steering wheel top center stick (or whatever it‘s called) is at 11‘ clock position for me to be able to drive straight.to counteract that, i ‘have‘ to make a sharp right turn and then the steering wheel top stick is at 12‘ clock position. I hope I managed to provide you with the idea.What‘s causing this? How can I fix this problem?
First of all we have no idea WTF you're working on or driving! Second of all we have no idea if you know anything about suspension work. It sounds to me like you did not mark the tie rod ends to put the new ones exactly the same length as the old ones. Just di a 4 wheel alignment! You probably have not had one done for thousands of miles if you ever have had one done. Pot holes and train tracks can knock a suspension out of alignment so with you replacing parts on top of normal driving chances are you will wear your tires out if you don't get the alignment done and then you have a much larger bill to replace the tires AND then do the alignment!
Most likely the problem is the rubber damping device between the steering box and the steering shaft, there is a rubber piece that keeps from allowing vibrations being transfered to the wheel. But to know for sure if it has this device I need to know the year and make, and yes anytime you replace front end parts you need to do a alignment unless your independently wealthy and can afford tires every 500 miles. The piece has 4 holes in it and a metal plate that is bolted in between the two haves of the steering coulomb and is overlooked a lot, by the way check it if it's broke it will break all the way and you will have no steering. I tried finding a picture of it but did not succeed.
always get alingment done after suspension change ok all the best .
The correct way to repair any tire is to plug it from the outside remove the tire and patch it on the inside. I've used shop grade plugs on the front and rear of my suzuki with no problems, however I've worked at a tire shop for years. If you have to ask, take it to a certified motorcycle repair shop and have them look at it.
It is not safe to plug a tire. I can not believe so many people are dumb enough to think its ok. The expanding and contracting a tire goes thru . Not to mention the heat that gets created or the abuse it may receive on crappy roads should answer this question alone. not plugging a tire properly will cause air leaks. go run some twisty s with out proper inflation on your bikes good tires and tell me how fun that was. The other fact that seems most obvious and rules out the rational that these guys have is how do you remove the tire and install a patch on the inside wall of a tire on the road. then put tire back on rim and inflate on the road (emergency situation?) Are you pulling a snap on truck behind you with compressor obviously no cuz you would likely put bike in the truck. At home in garage is not a emergency situation either. The fact you asked this question is not dumb and I hope you don't think I am bashing you. I hate guys that answer stuff like this like they do it all the time. you obviously are new to motorcycles and probably do not have experience or training to handle a blowout at high speed. my self after 40 years of riding wouldn't put a temp repair on something I trust my life on.
