how to change a tire on a Harley Davidson motorcycle?
It is always the rear tyre. Put bike on hydralift. if you have no centre stand, then weld a fabrication up or buy paddock stands to do the same safe job. Remove the rear wheel chequer plate cut out under rear wheel. You do have a 400kgs hydralift, I hope. Undo rear wheel outer nuts a bit; not too much there is more to shift first. Check if, by releasing wheel spindle adjusters (at very end of swing arm) you can shift wheel forward enough to let go the belt drive. No? Then call a mechanic to drop out the swing arm as well (need works manual for that) Yes? Unship drive belt, keep to one side of swing arm. Keep clean. Unship brake caliper (you may manage without but you'll never get the wheel back in with it on). Do not let the kids stomp on the brake pedal or you will have a brake recon to do as well. Finish removing wheel outer nuts. Deflate tyre completely. Withdraw spindle, wriggle wheel and tyre out under fender (mud guard). If it won't, remove wiring to tail and remove mudguard. as you remove wheel spindle, the spacers ins the swing arm will fall and roll into nearest drain. Make a note, and buy new set. Thrill to how you will ever hold the repaired wheel up in place and situate those spacers, the belt, the brake calliper and everything else whilst you re-feed the spindle back through twenty nine layers of mechanism. Ask yourself why you didn't but a Lambretta scooter, thirty second wheel change, centre stand standard (sic) Draw out (Hah! sounds so easy) the rear wheel, go with it to tyre shop. Be sure they check rim and renew rim tape. Stay with them so they don't buckle rim with power tyre removal machine. Bring new tyres wheel home, reverse the disassembly procedure. EDIT Wade you're right I forgot some of these tractors have disc wheels and other such nonsense. If he does, I reckon It's a write-off really. Loved the propagation stuff, too, terrifying.
If you have absolutely no other choice, a strap wrapped around the tire and cinched tight CAN holds enough air to get the tire inflated. It is a bear of a job. But I've done it. You might end up chopping the old tire off, I did mine. But sometimes the tire goes where one simply cannot get it into the shop, where it had ought to be when being changed. You will need tire irons of the best quality, and you will need to place at the bear minimum some kind of reinforced wooden apparatus between ALL the tools and the rim. This is especially true if one has alloy rims. Scratch an alloy rim and it might lead to catastrophic failure YEARS later. Microscopic cracks in Aluminium Alloy CAN and sometimes DO propagate. This word propagate means that in aluminium the alloy is physically smaller than it's oxidized state. Scratch it, and the oxygen can get into said crack, expand the metal and thus pry that crack further apart. When this happens, the wheel will die at some point. If two cracks exist it might lead to the whole rim falling apart all to once. But even one crack will OFTEN lead to a RAPID ( read explosive) decompression of the tire. If a motorcycle experiences this type of failure it can result in a fatality. And it might not even be the rider that dies. For instance, a 400+ pound motorcycle flying off the road into someones living room at high speed can hurt more than a family cat; and that would be bad enough.
Grab your Harley Davidson tools and remove the Harley Davidson NUTS from the Harley Davidson axle after you have placed that Harley Davidson on a Harley Davidson hydro-Lift. Refer to your Harley Davidson Shop Manual to what to loosen first in the proper Harley Davidson approved way, (eg. - rear Harley Davidson wheel - ) than proceed to the next Harley Davidson part Added Wade - Way Too descriptive about the family cat, poor thing!
