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Question:

I want to sound insulate my walls and celings /floors?

hellow I want to pack my walls floor and celing with somthing that is very dense and fireproof , I thought of vermiculite but there is a silicate danger , sand is too heavy rock wool silicate danger uld anyone suggest somthing I could pour or push in that is dense so the sound from my theater system will not leak out to the other parts of the house. Thanks big time . G. Singh

Answer:

the voltage regulator in your alternator is bad. it cant be replaced.youll have to buy another alternator
Call Lowe's and talk with them ,they sell a sound proof inoculation for homes.
Is the belt turning the alternator?
You go right ahead and do what feels right. That's the beauty of being American, you can do what you want !
Sound travels through air - so having air gaps in your construction is not the best idea. First priority, then is to be sure there are no air gaps at junctions with the surrounding wall. Squirt acoustic mastic in wherever you can. It is normal to fit a double layer of plasterboard with the joints staggered away from the first layer, so perhaps you should think about doing that. make sure joints are well filled. One trick is to make the sound go through as many different materials as possible, and normally the heavier and denser the material the more successful (I wouldn't have much confidence in polystyrene). I would be tempted to remove the facing, get rid of the exp polystyrene and stuff it with an acoustic quilt (Knauf or similar). Replace the boards and add the second layer. If you don't want to undo work you have already done, you could add a second skin spaced slightly away from the first, if you can afford to lose the space: fill this with the acoustic quilt, pinned at the top and draped down the wall. Avoid attaching the new layer directly to the wall as this can transmit sound. Contact British Gypsum's website for more info. Bear in mind flanking transmission - make sure the gap above the ceiling, under the floor if it's timber and any non-solid wall to which you are connecting are similarly filled. The dry sand is 'pugging' and is generally used in horizontal situations, ie floors, it is a simple way of adding mass to the construction and filling air holes. You need to be sure the ceiling below can carry the weight, and nobody is likely to pierce the hole. Visions of the wall draining out like an hour glass when you hang a picture would deter me from trying this in your situation - as would the prospect of overloading the board fixings from inside. Don't expect miracles - this is a notoriously difficult thing to achieve, and make sure when you are assesing whether it is a success the rooms are furnished. carpeted either side.

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