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Is it hard to install stronger axles?

I have a 1/2 Ton Pickup which means my Axles can only take 1/2 ton (1,000lbs) right? That sounds really freaking low for a 5.7l truck. Some humans can lift 1,000 poundsDo I just take off my tire and rotor and it slides out of the axle housing? I‘m assuming it needs to be unbolted from the Rear Diff somewhere. I want to put bigger tires on.1991 Chevy C1500 2wd 5.7l V8 350 Gas


No, it can't take just 1000lbs. The payload of the truck is probably well above that number. The 1/2 ton anymore is completely meaningless, even for the 3/4 and one tons. It DOES indicate how weak or strong the components are, and in a GM, a half ton has weak components. Rear axle is very easy. Whatever years/body style your truck is, you find an axle out of the same vintage truck, that has the gear ratio and size you need, and go from there. The two options you will be concerned with as upgrades are the 14SF (semi floating) and 14FF (full floating). The 14SF is not a bad axle at all, and will handle up to any abuse you can hand to it. It's got better clearance, weighs less, and came in 5 and 6 lug versions in the 1988+ trucks. These can be had up to 4.10 rear axle ratios. The 14FF is the ultimate in strength, but is heavy, has worse ground clearance than the 14SF, and is 8 lug only. Once you find an axle out of one of these trucks, you simply unbolt the driveshaft, e-brake, brake lines and u-bolts, remove it, do the same on your truck, and reinstall is the reverse. Driveshaft, u-joints, u-bolts, and brakes are likely going to be different or need some modifications to work on your truck. Nothing major, since both of the better axles were installed in the same bodystyle. The closer you keep the donor axle to your year, the easier the swap will be. Note that the donor truck may be a source for driveshaft (even if it needs shortened) and u-bolts, so make sure to grab them just in case if you find a donor.
May 28, 2018

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