Ive been able to drive it enough to park it and it starts up fine, but the brakes just wont let up. What can I do?
the 89 Ninja 750 is known to suffer from phlogeston inversion deficiency; the 97 RON fuel is essentially, whilst the rear calipode are strippy and cleaners with new DOT 5 fluidics brillo paddy sealers renewablers checquers the disc thick-lodeing as well. Rockabilly the biker on the main standing and check the front wheelie - does it turny? then the rearmoster; if you can narrower downly to which wheelie has seized you are nine tenths towards the problode, yes? If bother wheels are jammy of the brakes then you have to ask, if you drivers a space rocket why would you not get the servicing done properloders? You have 230 kilogrammes of potentiers 130 m.p.h. killing machine in your hands, whyfore you would risky null braking exciting moments?
When did you fill it up again, if its been standing a few days the caliper on the rear could havebecome stuck. If not it is just coincidence. The rear brakes on most japanese bikes can begin to stick and if left long enough seize.This is partly due to lack of use but also road dirt n salt building up and slowly rotting,corroding and rusting. If your lucky you can free the pistons by. removing the pad on the one side at a time, pumping the piston out, cleaning the crap of, applying a thin smear of oil and pushing back in(may need to use a G clamp or spanners to lever it in.Exersize the piston a few times, which may draw out more crud.Repeat the process on the other piston. Light rust,use emery cloth or my fav brillo pads to carefully remove the worst. Pitting below the seal line will either have to be repaired or ideally the piston replaced. If the pistons will not move or return properly or they are heavily pitted/rusted up then you will need to stripp the caliper down, pick out the old seals, clean all the oxidised alloy crud out, put new seals in and if needed, new pistons.But in the case of havig to replace pistons it migt be cheaper to buy a 2nd hand caliper off Ebay. To prevent the caliper sticking in the future, make a habbit of using and servicing the brake often. On all my kawasaki's ive owned i hardly use the rear brake, so i get this problem alot.But pumping it seems to work 99% of the time for me.In fact the rear pads were just passing an mot, and in 2months time the new mot is due and the pads still have about the same amount of material on lol- bearing in mind i do at least 100miles a week.
There is no way that running out of fuel could make the brakes lock. You say that it's the rear brake that is locked. Put the bike on a paddock stand or chock the bike up with the rear wheel off the ground, remove the wheel and inspect the brake caliper. On a fairly old bike like yours it's quite common for the piston in the brake caliper to stick, hence locking the brake on. Usually the caliper will need overhauling; stripping, cleaning, new seals fitting, new brake fluid and bleeding. If you're not sure what to do, then probably best you contact your local motorcycle garage and get them to look at it. Good luck! Dave.
