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Question:

New Door Knob with Lock Doesn't Work?

Hi There,I'm hoping someone may have some feedback on the following.I am trying to install a new door handle with lock for bathroom.Everything appears fine, door locks when it's ajar. However, onceI close the door and lock it, once I try and open it to see if it locks, it just flies open. The knob mechanism seems to be working, locking but I can just open the door without any problem if its in the door unit. why would this happen? Please tell me because I'm about to lose my mind. I've been working on this for over 3 hours. I bless you for your help.

Answer:

I wouldn't do either. I would open it up and decorate it to the nines with romantic candles and wedding decorations. Then people can take a break with their partners for a little make out session half way through the night. EDIT: Woah! Since when is kissing synonymous with illict sex? I've been married for 15 years and I still light candles and kiss my husband. People who date have been known to kiss, too. Maybe 'making out' means something different south of the border?
Buy slip fit couplings and PVC glue. I have never heard of anyone cutting threads for PVC.
Use of an extension cord in a permanent application as you describe it is a NEC (National Electric Code) violation. And not rated for the purpose. You may however, do the following: Install an extension ring (box) at the existing receptacle location. Run 1/2 PVC pipe to the new location.(you are talking 120 volts here, right?) Install a single gang FS box (weather proof pvc box) GFI receptacle and an in-use cover. Now you are in compliance with the NEC, and won't have to rework anything in the future if the house goes on the market. Please stay out of the Plumbing department when getting your PVC pipe and fittings. Plumbing pipe is rated 60 psi and electrical pipe is rated 90 deg Centigrade. They are NOT interchangeable. Not to mention you can't pull wire through a plumbing elbow, but you can pull through wire through an electrical 90 deg. fitting. I don't recommend trying to run UF (direct burial) cable in this application. Stick to individual conductors, 12 THHN will be fine for 20 amps. Hot, neutral and ground. If I missed something, if the tub needs 240 volts or more than 20 amps let me know. Bury the pipe 14' deep so that you have the 12 of cover required by code. If you use the correct/proper boxes and covers there will be no need to seal the pipe. If you take a picture of the existing wall outlet it will help the folks at your local building supply store to direct you to the right parts. OH, and are you sure the existing outdoor outlet circuit will handle this load? And if it is already GFI protected you won't need another one at the new box. Good luck.

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