Consider a Bike with a Braking system such that, a single pedal push activates both the front and back brakes. What form of Hydraulic circuitry can be used to divide the braking force between the front and rear brakes
It would have to have some fancy kind of feedback system, measuring the instantenous load on both wheels (which changes during braking), and also ABS so you wouldn't have one wheel locking up in a curve. It's sort of complicated if you think about it. I think you could do a better job with your brain. Besides, you want to use mostly front brake when going straight, and drag rear brake through corners. How could the bike itself know?
I am thinking that your calipers have corrosion in them. When it is cold, the metal between the piston and the sleeve that the piston travels in is contracted so there is enough room for them to operate normally. When it is hot they drag. the metal is expanded and the brake pressure from the fluid is enough to engage them, but the suction of the fluid is not enough to pull them back out. I believe that you need the calipers rebuilt and an accompanying fluid change.
definate fluid change. but you dont know how much,, if any damage was done by the water Id pull it apart look but I tend to be a little anal when it comes to stopping the bike( its great to have a bike go quick but at some stage your going to have to stop,, so the brakes had better work)
depending on where you are and the facilities available you can do either of three things. 1 fit a restricted port divider ei one hole larger than other, this will divert force to each brake at different forces but equal pressure, and on a hard STAMP equalise 50/50 due to the principles of fluid dynamics. You'll have to work out the size of the hole yourself approx 1/4 radius is 1/2 the force is a rough guide. 2 you could buy a brake diverter valve off of a pick up truck, this is the load sensing valve on the rear axle which alters the braking force applied to the rear wheels of the truck automatically, this will need to be set up and adjusted to suit the suspension system on the bike, If you are riding a RIGID THIS WILL NOT WORK 3 on the brake like install a small variable valve or pressure regulator and accompany it with a hydraulic accumulator (basically an air over oil reservoir), by increasing the air pressure in the reservoir ( there is a bladder to prevent the two mixing) you increase the amount of pressure available after the regulator to the rear brake.
Suzuki and Yamaha used the linked braking on their 1980's touring bikes as well. As far as I know, Kawasaki never did on any of their bikes. One thing all the linked systems had in common was that the brake pedal applied about 60-80% of the braking force to the rear brake and the rest to one of the front discs. The other front disc was connected to the hand brake lever. The reason for the high percentage of power to the rear brake was to keep from locking the front brake on gravel. It was done by using a proportioning valve just like found on automobiles. The problem with having a foot operated brake pedal only is what happens when you're stopped at a light on an uphill incline? You have to keep one foot on the brake, leaving only the other foot to balance the bike. And when the light is about to change, to put the bike in gear, you'd have to lift that foot off the ground, requiring you to balance a non-moving bike. In addition, to have decent braking on dry pavement, you'd end up with too much front brake power on wet or slick pavement. Your choice is to find an old bike with the linked braking or simply do like everyone else and learn to brake like you're supposed to.
