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Question:

What is best material to insulate an exterior refrigerant line running from an outside A/C unit up to attic?

The existing pipe insulation is rubber and has badly split and deteriorated after only one yearI wrapped most of it in duct tapeIt seems to be intended for interior use but does not stand up well outside.

Answer:

The brand name of choice is RubatexIt's more expensive, denser and way more effective than the cheap foam stuff at Lowe'sYou can find Rubatex at a Johnstone or really any HVAC supplies storeLook in the Yellow Pages under Air Conditioning: Parts for retailers near youYour retailer may carry a brand other than Rubatex but the point is to get the good quality stuffDuct tape is a waste of timeEven the cheap insulation from Lowe's would be a better choice than plain duct tapeThere's insulating tape to be had and that can help you quite a lot; Lowe's carries that too and you might do well to have some on handIf you can't get anything but the cheap big box store pipe insulation, you will need to wrap the entire thing with an exterior grade tape to protect it from sunlightThe UV in sunlight will break down the foam fairly rapidly otherwiseGorilla Tape might be a good choice, but be warned: it ain't cheapDon't neglect the insulation inside the house, eitherThe pipe running up to the attic will form condensation on it, which drips and causes water stainsYou've got some cramped space crawling to do, if the insulation on the pipe in that area is also in need of repairGood luck with it.
Try starting it with muffs and see if it will fire before selling itIf it runs try $300 as he will low ball you, if it has issues you could get it tuned up and sell it or take the tune up price off of the asking priceI've personally left a 1959 18hp Evinrude sit for 6+ years and even dumped a little engine oil in it and it started first pullGood luck
This is simpleThe fuel line has to hold pressure, otherwise the carb runs dryLacking fuel, the motor will cough, spit and cut off, just like you describedListen close at the fittings for the wheezing sound of sucking air while you pump the primer bulbIf that doesn't help, just replace the whole fuel line with bulb and fittingsThose things wear out after awhile anywayAlternatively, you can buy a new bulb and quick-disconnect fittings to install on the hose you haveThe male fittings on the tank and motor will pretty much last foreverThey for sure outlast a portable fuel tank, and the one on my 1979 vintage motor is original and still goingIf the bulb still loses prime, take the air silencer cover off the front of the motor, till the motor full up, pump up the primer bulb and keep squeezingDon't try to burst it or anything, just apply some pressureIf you see gas running out the carb throat, it means your float valve is worn out or misadjustedOtherwise, start replacing the fuel lines on the motor (fitting to pump, pump to carb)Somewhere in there is an air leak, it's just a matter of time until you find it.

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