what is the lifespan of nitrile rubber?
Properly clean with the plumbers abrasive paper. Also clean inside the joints. Use flux. Heat to temp and apply the solder from the opposite side that you are heating and let the heat from the joint pull the solder into the gaps. Should work. If it doesn't they do make PVC adapters that will fit copper. There sold in the hardware store.
When you clean the copper pipe, DO NOT TOUCH THE CLEANED PART WITH YOUR FINGERS. Fingers deposit oil on the pipe which will interfere with solder. Flux it well then solder. I would not recommend using a rubber hose and hose clamps for a permanent solution.
Sounds like you have water in the lines while your soldering .. If the pipe is spitting / bubble the joint you need to drain the system before soldering . If it is a place that's has access to it you can solder union in . DO NOT USE IF ITS IN THE GROUND OR BEHIND A WALL . IF the water wont stop try shoving bread in the pipe . Anyway all the above post are also great ideas good luck
Is this a commercial extinguisher or a small residential model. It is not recommended to refill the home ones. You should discard it a buy a new one to ensure reliability. They are quite cheap..
All of the ideas above are right on the mark. Soldering for plumbing requires: - tightly aligned parts no out-of-round pipes or fittings, and burrs should be removed. I use a pipe cut-off tool rather than a saw to cut pipe. - very clean surfaces (inside the coupling/fitting and outside the pipe) - flux to remove any residual tarnish (oxide) and to allow the solder to flow - plenty of heat (including no water anywhere near the joint, which will keep it cool because you end up boiling water. The bread idea works.) One thing you should check is that you are using the right gas torch to match your solder type. If you use eutectic tin-lead solder (63:37 ratio), then you can use an ordinary propane gas torch. (This solder alloy is no longer permited for drinking water plumbing, though.) If you are using a lead-free solder, you should switch to a MAPP gas torch, which will provide a hotter flame. If by chance you are using a 2% silver-bearing solder, then a MAPP torch is mandatory because the solder melting point is much higher than lead-free. The solder is also very strong. Apply a bit of flux to the cold parts before heating, then heat all the fittings and pipe uniformly to melt the flux. Remove the flame then apply more flux till it flows well around the solder joint. Apply the flame again and test the temperature by touching your solder to the opposite side of the flame. If it flows, then finish applying solder around the joint and keep the flame 180 degrees on the opposite side the molten solder will flow to the hotter side.
